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Muhammad Ali, "February 17th the three high altitude porters have reached the Rupal wall of Nanga Parbat and have started to go up the mountain. (This team will continue to climb as high as they can go in their search for Joel.) At the same time today Fida (Guide with Joel), along with two local porters, has also continued to search the area of Camp 1."
Image by Joel Wischnewski courtesy Joel Wischnewski, SOURCE
Joel February 2nd: "This is how I found C2 deposit. Multivitamins tabs pushed away to get access to more interesting things. The destroyed plastic bag hanging out is a raisin bag. (You can see 2 raisins in the snow, he {the animal] was surely disappointed by the taste because nothing was missing)."
Image by Joel Wischnewski courtesy Joel Wischnewski, SOURCE
Joel with his Liaison Officer, Fida (left), and his cousin on the ridge at the end of the Herrligkoffer area (January 30th).
courtesy Joel Wischnewski, SOURCE
January 20: "The magical Rupal Face. I love this picture. I was enjoying a tea when the mountain started a beautiful show with magical colors changes."
Image by Joel Wischnewski courtesy Joel Wischnewski, SOURCE
January 13 from Camp 1: "The mega avalanche just came over me. Incredible. It’s like an earthquake and a giant wave together, huge ones. The bivi spot is very well protected by the rock tower. It’s safe and strong. When I saw this spot, I had something like this in my mind. But I had no idea of the brutality of a monster avalanche."
Image by Joel Wischnewski courtesy Joel Wischnewski, SOURCE
"On which other 8000m mountain do you have wolves walking around your tent? Things like that only happen on Nanga Parbat."
Image by Joel Wischnewski courtesy Joel Wischnewski, SOURCE
December 27th from France: "A last picture before I leave. [...] The boards that I bring to Nanga Parbat are brand new, but in a few weeks they will be fully destroyed on the Rupal face. Some of you are maybe discovering mountaineering and snowboarding with this website. Don’t do stupid things, improve your knowledge and technique and try to act pro. Steep snowboarding needs time and experience. Don’t rush it."
Image by Joel Wischnewski courtesy Joel Wischnewski, SOURCE
December 20th training: "I carefully check my knees and spine when I’m loading. Running with it is too challenging for my left tibia (former multiples fractures area). It burns like hell. The pain is higher than a periostitis so I don’t try to go over 65kg and walk everywhere with my dog."
Image by Joel Wischnewski courtesy Joel Wischnewski, SOURCE

Winter Nanga Parbat: Search for solo climber Joel Wischnewski

Posted: Feb 18, 2013 10:36 am EST
(Newsdesk) ExplorersWeb has received news that a recue has been launched for the French solo climber on Nanga Parbat.

On February 6th Joel Wischnewski updated his Winter Nanga Parbat journal with a short report, "Moving up. The central pillar and the wall are too dry. I’m going to try the S-E pillar. I’ve got 3 days. Bye, take care and thanks for following." No further updates since then.

The previous day he said he was trapped inside his tent for two days. [...] "Constant belly pain today but it’s ok.. I think.. I don’t care." (On February 3 he reported he was losing blood from is intestines.)

He added, "I’m a little worried for the other climbers, like the Poles on Schell route. Hopefully they are safe. Fida is looking for my visa extension. If possible I would like to stay here up to the 21st March, which is the end of my permit and the end of winter. Beside my family, there’s nothing good for me in France and I prefer to stay here, even in storms, till the last moment."

"I also need perfect conditions to climb, otherwise it's way too risky. My route is very technical and exposed. I cannot climb like the other teams are doing."

Rescue operation report from Muhammad Ali

Yesterday word arrived at ExplorersWeb about details regarding the situation around Wischnewski on Nanga Parbat from Muhammad Ali, Managing Director of Adventure Pakistan, Joel's trekking agency:

"His family, and of course also we from Adventure Pakistan, are very worried about him and therefore a rescue operation has been launched, below you can find the most recent developments:"

"This morning (February 17th) the three high altitude porters have reached the Rupal wall of Nanga Parbat and have started to go up the mountain. (This team will continue to climb as high as they can go in their search for Joel.) At the same time today Fida (Guide with Joel), along with two local porters, has also continued to search the area of camp 1."

"Our last contact with "base camp" has been around 1pm today (17th) - after that we have continuously tried to reach the team on their satellite phone but unfortunately without success. (the land lines also do not seem to be working, this is most likely due to heavy snow fall.)"

February 16th

"Today our Guide Fida along with two police constables from the local police station went up to camp 1 to find Joel but returned without success."

"Meanwhile I have moved three highly experienced high altitude porters from Skardu (who have climbed several 8000 plus peaks and did several successful rescue mission in Baltoro region led by Kazim Sadpara the younger brother of Nisar Hussain Sadpara who disappeared along with Gerfried Goeshl and Cedric Hahlen on March 09, 2012 while climbing G 1) with full climbing equipment to reach Rupal valley as soon as possible and search for Joel on Rupal wall by climbing up to 7000 meters."

"(The high altitude porters have reached Tarshing this evening (Feb 16th) and will start going up in the early morning of the 17th.)"

Earlier update / developments:

"The last blog post from Joel stated that he would climb for 3 days (Feb 6: Moving up. The central pillar and the wall are too dry. I'm going to try the S-E pillar. I've got 3 days. Bye, take care and thanks for following), in an earlier message he had also mentioned about staying up for 1 week."

"He had experienced problems with his satellite phone before and while picking up a spare battery in Rupal village he took extra food supplies with him. When after several days there still hadn't been any news from Joel and in order to establish contact with him, our guide Fida has gone up in the night to try and contact Joel while making light signals by flashing with a torch as had been discussed by Joel and Fida in case he couldn't be reached by phone."

"Unfortunately no contact has been established either by phone or flash light and after that the rescue operation has been started. (as described above)."

Nanga Parbat altitude: 8126m.

Joel's expedition and the new route attempt: Pure alpine style with no ropes, no O2, no fixed camps, no porters, no altitude porters, no staff. Only the mandatory Liaison Officer for security concerns. Transport approx. 150kg. 2 snowboards theat he can us as a pulka for the trek.

Route starts with with a 11km trek to Herrligkoffer camp site, 3600m (advanced base camp). "The Rupal Face is one of the biggest alpine face on earth," Joel says in his journal.

The route:
"The first part of the route will be similar to the one Tomaz Humar took in 2005 but a little more S-E and more straight. It’s highly exposed to avalanches due to rockfalls from the Rupal wall laying right over a big serac. Bivi spots are very rare and it’s dangerous up to 6200m. What comes next is steep, that’s all you need to know. Hopefully I will be still alive and fit enough when I reach the top of the central serac. If it’s too windy and too difficult, and if I don’t feel great at that time, I have 2 other routes possible: to the left and the House Anderson route, to the right and another new line close to the 1985 route."

The snowboard descent: "I can’t tell you yet." Read more here about Joel's expedition and the new route attempt.

"Forget about massive ego concerns, the first winter summit, to be the first to etc. I don’t care, I go and climb for myself because I seriously need it in my life right now." Read more here what he says about Why winter, why Nanga Parbat.

Links

Previous:

Nanga Parbat winter quest is over: Eli Revol, "I've never been so cold"

Pakistan Winter: Broad Peak Summit attempt cancelled

Winter Nanga Parbat ExWeb interview with Daniele Nardi: "We can't afford mistakes"

Nanga Parbat / WInter Pakistan

Nardi's reports

Eli's reports

Joel Wischnewski

Polish on FB

Ian, David and Zoltan on FB

Tomek and Marek

Tomek

News updates about Pakistan winter expeditions

Altitude Pakistan (Laila Peak)

RussianClimb (Amin Brakk)

Polish winter climbing news

Related:

Winter permits, calendar climbs and more: 2004 ExWeb series revisit

Winter 8000ers: Statistics recall

Himalaya winter games: list of expeditions is up

Hunt For Funds And A Tuna Freezer: ExWeb Interview With Team Nanga Parbat


#Mountaineering #topstory