Alex Txikon and Jose Fernandez were up to their chests in the snow on the top.
courtesy Alex Txikon and Jose Fernandez, SOURCE
North West Face of Laila Peak taken from Hushpang.
Image by Paul Holding, SOURCE
Laila Peak summit and rock crux.
courtesy Jose Fernandes, SOURCE
Winter Pakistan: Txikon and Fernandez bag first Winter Laila Peak summit
Posted: Feb 19, 2013 02:02 pm EST
(Newsdesk) Alex Txikon and Jose Fernandez reached the summit of Laila Peak on February 18th and therefore bagged the First Winter First Winter Ascent of this peak.
They left Camp 2 at 5600 meters early yesterday morning on their second summit attempt and pushed against wind and snow for 10 hours. At 4 pm. local time, their GPS read 6100 meters, said the team, with the snow up to their chests.
It was "very, very, very hard," reported the guys on Tixon's blog. It was a "wild day, extreme, harsh, endless, under very adverse weather conditions", also with technical difficulties. Winds were up to 60 km/h and temperatures as low as 35 degrees below zero, but with the wind-chill "it must have been very, very low," said the home team.
The descent was just as difficult, they say. It took them four hours to get back at Camp 2.
With their previous summit attempt they turned back 100 meters from the top. Fellow team mates, Juanjo San Sebastián and Ramón Portilla, who had turned back earlier because of a knee injury and frostbite respectively, were waiting for Alex and José at Base Camp. The two summiteers have arrived at BC today, according to a tweet from José.
Laila Peak has been climbed only twice, a total of only seven people have summited, one of them Simon Yates, according to Wikipedia. Laila Peak is in the Hushe Valley near Gondogoro Glacier is in Karakoram range and is 6,096 meters (20,000 ft) high. It has a distinctive spear-like shape. Its northwest face has a slope of 45 degrees in more than 1500 vertical meters.
Previous Laila Peak update
Winter Nanga Parbat: Joel Wischnewski search update
Splitboard in Pakistan: don't miss Laila peak debrief
Pakistan wrap-up: Laila Peak, "Time to piss on the fire"
Winter Nanga Parbat ExWeb interview with Daniele Nardi: "We can't afford mistakes"
Nanga Parbat / Winter Pakistan
Alex Txikon's blog
Jose Fernandez blog
Polish on FB
Ian, David and Zoltan on FB
Tomek and Marek
News updates about Pakistan winter expeditions
Altitude Pakistan (Laila Peak)
RussianClimb (Amin Brakk)
Polish winter climbing news
Winter permits, calendar climbs and more: 2004 ExWeb series revisit
Winter 8000ers: Statistics recall
Himalaya winter games: list of expeditions is up
Hunt For Funds And A Tuna Freezer: ExWeb Interview With Team Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat weather forecast