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Summer 2010 Karakoram expeditions
Updated: June 14, 2010
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes
K2 double headers
FTA for K2/Broad Peak
Field Touring Alpine has a 14 member team (including guides Fabrizio Zangrilli and Chris Szymiec) for BP, with 8 of them continuing on to K2 for our 3rd effort on the mountain.
K2 team will climb via the cesen route. According to Szymiec, this is a non-guided trip for experienced climbers. All members have summited at least one 8000er in the past. www.fieldtouring.com fabriziozangrilliguiding.blogspot.com
Mike Horn - Pangaea expedition
Swizerland resident Mike Horn will lead a large, multinational team of youngsters along the Baltoro; he also has a climbing permit for both K2 and Broad Peak, together with another climber.
www.mikehorn.com
Polish Broad Peak & K2 expedition
Boguslaw Ogrrodnik will lead this 9-member team on K2 & BP.
Bulgarian Broad Peak & K2 expedition
Petar Georgiev is appointed leader of a 19 member team aiming for the BP+K2 double header.
K2 (8611)
Fredrik Ericsson back for a K2 ski-descent
Hoping to become the first person to ski the worlds three highest mountains, Swedish ski mountaineer Fredrik Ericsson is now returning to K2, teaming up with American alpine journalist Trey Cook.
Ericsson attempted to climb and ski K2 last year - the expedition came to a sad end when his mate Michele Fait fell to his death while skiing down from C2 on the Cesen route - the same line Ericsson plans to climb. Fredrik Ericsson has completed ski descents on Peak Somoni, Shisha Pangma, Gasherbrum 2 and Dhaulagiri. www.fredrikericsson.com
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's ultimate No-O2 8000er
After summitting Everest in spring this year, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner will go for K2, hoping to become the first female to complete the 14x8000er quest without supplementary O2.
www.gerlindekaltenbrunner.at
S. Korean K2 Expedition
Cha Moung Kwan is the leader of a S. Korean expedition on K2
Luis Benitez
Sharing FTA's permit and returning to high altitude is multiple Everest summiter, guide and Nangpa La hero American Luis Benitez, leading a small but strong K2 team of three other climbers.
Georghe Dijmarescu
Another multiple Everest summiteer, American guide Georghe Dijmarescu is returning to K2 as a leader of an US/Europe expedition.
Italian K2 expedition
Giuseppe Pompili (leader), Adriano Dal Cin and Sergio Valentinie will try the Abruzzi Spur w/o O2 in late july, after a period of acclimatization at the Deosai plains. Logidtically an independent team, they are however sharing climbing permit with George Dijmarescu.
www.paesieimmagini.it/blog/k2blog_en.htm
EV K2 CNR "Keep Baltoro/K2 clean" expedition
An Italian team by EV KK2 CNR, collaborating with several organizations in Pakistan plus the country's Alpine Club, will launch two clean-up expeditions: one along the Baltoro valley and another to K2's high camps where they hope to retrieve solid waste.
www.evk2cnr.org
Broad Peak (8047)
Basque BAT team for Broad Peak's three summits traverse
panish 14x8000er climber Alberto Iurrategi is teaming up with regular mates Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalza to repeat a feat done just once before: the complete traverse of Broad Peak's three summits. The climb will go in alpine style.
Alberto & Co. are sharing permit with some other climbers. www.basqueteam.com
Martin Gablik
Slovak Martin Gablik will attempt Broad Peak with four climbing mates.
Russian/Norwegian expedition
Aleksander Gamme and three others comprise this expedition.
Nanga Parbat (8125)
Polish Winter Himalaism 2010-2015 Expedition
winter pioneer Artur Hajzer is leading 11 mates on Nanga Parbat (mostly rookies on their first Himalayan experience, scorted by seasoned veterans). First to reach the mountain this year and climbing the Kinshoffer route on the Diamir side, the Poles hope the fast start will permit to attempt a hat-trick by climbing both Gasherbrums next.
Sharing the permit are Italians P.Michalski and S.L.Terra plus, separately, an American lady. www.polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl
Polish Pawlowski Nanga Parbat Expedition
Ryszard Pawlowski is leading nine fellow Poles.
www.patagonia.com.pl
Korea Nanga Parbat Expedition
Hong Bo Seong and four other South Korean climbers will be on Nanga too.
Gasherbrum multiple climbs
GI+BP: Brazilian 10 Anos do Brasil no K2 expedition
10 years after summiting K2, Waldemar Niclevicz is back to Pakistan for an attempt on both Hidden Peak and Broad Peak. He is teaming up with regular mate Irivan Burda. www.niclevicz.com.br
Don Bowie back to GIII+GIV
After a failed attempt due to bad conditionas last year, don Bowie is back to GIII and GIV together with another climbing mate.
www.calpinist.com
Slovenian Gasherbrumx4 expedition
Slovenian Miha Habjan and team want all four: GI, II, V and VI.
GI (8068) & GII (8035) doubles
Altitude Junkies
Altitude Junkies' Phil Crampton is leading an international team on both Gasherbrums.
Double-header climbers are Phil Crampton (UK/USA), Max Kausch (Argentina/UK), Arian Lemal (France), Samuli Mansikka (Finland), and Fredrik Strang (Sweden). Roo Dix (UK), Tachi Pesando (Italy) and Wally Reisinger (Canada) will go just for Gasherbrum II. www.altitudejunkies.com
Latin American GI+GII expedition
After joining up forces with Brazilians Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Burda on GI, Argentinean Hernan wilke and wife Monica (from Colombia), Colombians Lucho and Maria; plus Dunaj and Rodrigo from Guatemala will attempt GII.
Ludovic Challeat
French Ludovic is climbing GI and GII. His team includes Marc Dreyer, Jean-Marc Wojcik, Yves Blazer (on his 3rd 8000er), Christian Maurel and Pemba Sherpa from Katmandu.
www.expes.com
Denis Urubko
Kazakh star-climber denis Urubko has applied for a climbing permit on both Gasherbrums.
Swiss GI+GII expedition
Swiss Rolf Traschsel and four other climbers will be also there for a GI+GII double-header.
Czech GI+GII Expedition
Radek Jaros is leading an 8-member team.
Jacek Teler
Jacek is back for a double GI+GII attempt, appointed as leader of an 8-member team.
GI (8068)
Italian GI north side Expedition
A team of all-star Italian climbers led by Agostino da Polenza will attempt Gasherbrum I north face, in Chinese territory.
GII (8035)
Nicola Campani
Italian Nicola is giving GII a shot.
Amical Alpin
Spires & Lower peaks
Gasherbrum V (6980)
Korean GV expedition
Kim Hung Il is giving GV a shot.
Kanjut Sar (7790)
US/Russian International expedition
Lev Loffe is appointed leader of a 13-member international team attempting Kanjut SAR (7,790 m) located in the Hispar Muztagh range (northern Pakistan).
Latok-I (7215)
David Falt Latok-I Expedition
Swede David Falt is attempting Latok-I.
e9climbing.blogspot.com
Japanese Latok-I Expedition
Piolet dOr 2009 winner Yusuke Sato is leading a small party from Japan on latok I.
Spantik (7027)
Lithuanian Spantik Expedition
Lithuanian Saulius Rundickas is the head of a 5-member team on Spantik.
Tahu Ratum (6651)
British Expedition
Brit Luke Hunt and two climbing mates are climbing Tahu Ratum peak.
Himalaya Spring 2010 expeditions
Updated: Apr 30, 2010
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes EVEREST+LHOTSE DOUBLE HEADERS
Simone Moro and Denis Urubko for a new route on Lhotse
Denis' vision and add Simone's drive are united again for one of the coolest expeditions this spring: a new route in alpine style on Lhotse, plus a no-O2 Everest climb.
The climbers will decide on the route once there, depending on conditions, and climb with no O2, fixed ropes, camps or porters.
Previously, Simone will guide a friend on Everest, via its South side and without supplementary O2. Denis will accompany them up to the South Col in order to acclimatize. A last-minute Everest summit permit might be issued for Denis though. simonemoro.wordpress.com Cleo Weidlich
American Cleo Weidlich will attempt Lhotse and Everest from the normal Khumbu side routes (Lhotse's west and Everest's south flanks)."Weather permitting, this will be a No O2 climb," she stated on an email to ExplorersWeb. Cleo summited Cho Oyu last year.
cweidlichsherpagirl.blogspot.com EVEREST SOUTH
Nobukazu Kuriki No-O2 ascent
After a failed attempt last year, Japanaese Nobukazu Kuriki plans to give Everest another shot this spring without O2.
www.plus-blog.spor tsnavi.com/bt_nobukazu2 Argentinean bicentennial expedition
The expedition goal is to summit Everest by May 2010, exactly 200 years after Argentina's May Revolution.
All team members are Bariloche residents trained in the Andes. Climbers are Ramon Chiocconi, Alvar Puente, Marcelo Topo Deza, Carlos Charly Galosi and Leonardo Cuny Proverbio. Brazil-Guatemala expedition
Manoel Morgado (BRA) with Andrea Cardona (GUAT) who will attempt the first Central American lady summit of Everest.
wwww.manoelmorgado.com.br Brad Jackson and Sandy Hoby Australian Everest 2010 Expedition
After a failed attempt in 2008 as members in Altitude Junkies' team, Australians Brad and Sandy are ready for a second round.
www.everest2010.com.au Ta Loeffler Mountain of Learning
After a failed attempt in 2007, Ta of Newfoundland is back to Everest, climbing again from its south side. Ta hopes to bag Everest and Vinson in order to complete the 7 Summits quest.
www.taloeffler.com Finnish joint Everest-Lhotse expedition
Mikko Vermas will try Everest again with a sherpa while Tomi Myllys plus Joni Kirtola are headed for Lhotse. The Finns have climbed together since 2005, mostly in Peruvian Andes. Mikko and Tomi were members in last year's Airborne Rangers Club Everest Expedition. Tomi reached the summit while Mikko made 8200m.
www.mountaineering.fi Anne-Mari Hyrylinen - Skyclimbers Finnish expedition
The team's mission is to help Anne-Mari Hyrylinen to become the first Finnish female Everest summiteer. The team will climb via the South Col route.
www.skyclimbers.com Canada's No Guts Know Glory
Canadians Robert Hill and Darrel Ainscough hope to complete their 7Summits quest on Everest this upcoming spring. They will be guided by 2008s Everest summiteer John Furneaux, from Canada West Mountain School.
Robert is a Crohn's disease patient and lives with an ostomy. www.nogutsknowglory.com Malta's Challenge 8000
Guided by victor Saunders, climbers Robert Gatt, Gregory Attard and Marco Cremona comprise the first Everest expedition ever launched from Malta. Before heading for E's south side BC, the climbers planned to climb Nirekha peak for acclimatization - logistic difficulties are forcing them to train on Island Peak instead though. The maltese climbers plan to use supplementary O2 on the summit push.
www.challenge8000.net Altitude Junkies
After a large number of expeditions in Tibet, leader Phil Crampton got a taste of Everest south side last year and goes for more this spring as leader of a fully-supported expedition.
www.altitudejunkies.com Dawa Steven Eco Everest expedition 2010
Outfitted by Asian Trekking, Dawa Steven and his Eco Everest Expedition plan to collect and bring down garbage from altitudes of 6500 m to 8000m. A team of 10 high altitude Sherpas will be hired to clean up garbage and debris from such high altitudes. This years expedition targets to bring down 1000 kgs of debris from high altitude above Camp 2 (6500m) and 6000 kgs of debris from Camp 2 and below. The team will also use alternative energy solutions like the parabolic solar cookers and the SteriPENs for water purification.
Team climbing leader Apa Sherpa is planning to break his own record by going for his 20th Everest summit. Expedition sirdar will be Nanga Dorje Sherpa. www.asian-trekking.com www.apasherpa.com Peak Freaks
Alpine Ascents International
The Everest regulars are back for another year.
www.alpineascents.com
Adventure Consultants
Another regular Everest commercial outfit back for more.
www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Everest Mountain Trip
Todd Rutledge, Bill Allen and Scoot Woollums (fresh from Antarctica) are heading for Everest south side this spring, leading a fully-supported expedition.
mteverest2010.blogspot.com
exploreyourplanet2009.blogspot.com Seven summits for C.A.F.
Mountain Trip team includes Paul and Denise Fejtek, who are climbing the 7 Summits to support the Challenged Athletes foundation. Everest is the targetted goal this spring.
www.fejteksevensummits.blogspot.com Patrick Hollingworth
After topping-out Cho Oyu in fall last year, Western Australian Patrick will go for Everest south side together with Sherpas Lakpa and Sumit.
www.patrickhollingworth.com Finding Life - Elia Saikaly
Canadian Elia Saikaly is on a second attempt on Everest south side. He filmed for Gabriel Filippi on a late-season attempt last year.
www.findinglife.ca Adventures Global
The outfitter founded by Ronnie Muhl from S.Africa and Stephen Bock from Australia has launched an expedition on Everest south side.
www.adventuresglobal.net RMI guides
Everest mega-summiteer Dave Hahn (the non-Sherpa climber with most Everest summits bagged) is back for more, leading RMI's 2010 expedition.
www.rmiguides.com IMG
Eric Simonson's International Mountain Guides are back for Everest and Lhotse.
www.mountainguides.com Mountain Madness
Ready to bag his 10th Everest summit, Willie Benegas will lead for MM as usual.
www.mountainmadness.com Summit Climb
Dan Mazur is appointing Arnold Coster as leader on Everest south side. The US-based company is also launching teams on Everest north side and Lhotse.
www.summitclimb.com Expedition Hanesbrands
Jagged Globe
Tim Calder will lead J-Gs team on Everests South Col route. The UK-based outfitter is also launching a team on the peak's north side.
www.jagged-globe.co.uk
Dream Guides
Fully-supported expedition led by 7-time Everest summiteer British Kenton Cool and Rob Casserley.
www.dreamguides.com
Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.
www.kobler-partner.ch
Costa Rica "David's Braves" expedition
A Christian group known as Los Valientes de David (David's Braves) hope to climb Everest for Jesus. Led by Enmanuel Menendez.
http://esparzacostarica.blogspot.com HimEx
Of Discovery fame and Nangpa La/David Sharp infame, Russell Brice returns to Everest south side this year.
www.himex.com EVEREST NORTH
Gerlinde & Ralf
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and husband Ralf Dujmovits will return to Everest north face for an oxygen-less attempt. Ralf has climbed all 14, 8000ers (Everest with O2), Gerlinde has Everest and K2 left.
www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at www.amical.de Mondinelli back to Everest no O2 - with Abele Blanc
14x8000er summiteer Silvio Mondinelli is back to Everest for a no-O2 north side ascent. Gnaro leads a team which also includes Abele Blanc who might have plans for Annapurna too. Other members are Michele Enzio and Marco Camandona.
www.montagna.org www.gnaromondinelli.it Alfredo Garcia no O2 ascent
Spanish Alfredo Garcia (28) will attempt Everest with Pedro Garcia. Alfredo previously summited Gasherbrum II (2006), Cho Oyu (2007) and Broad Peak (2008). The team will carry two emergency canisters but climb without O2.
Sharing permit and BC will be fellow Spaniard Josu Ordubay, aiming for a loght ascent with no O2 or porters.
www.everest2010.es Hungarians no O2 Dreher 24 expedition
Dvid Klein and Lszl Vrkonyi aim for the first Hungarian noO2 Everest summit. They are climbing from Tibet.
www.expeditions.hu Jordan Romero Everest at 13
Together with his father Paul and Karen Lundgren; Big Bear Lake resident Jordan Romero hopes to summit Everest at the ripe age of 13.
www.jordanromero.com Project-Himalaya
Chessell Adventures Everest 2010
Duncan Chessell has launched an Everst expedition on the north side.
www.chesselladventures.com www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/chadv21 7Summits-Club
Alex Abramov (3times everest summiteer) and his 7Summit-Club team will be back to their usual Everest playground: the north side with 16 members, 4 guides, a Doctor, 12 Sherpas and 4 cooks.
Co-leader will be Nikolay Cherniy (71 years old and two-times summiteer). The expedition staff also includes Noel Hanna - guide (2 times on Everest summit) Sergey Larin as guide and nurse (2 times on summit), Maxim Bogatirev as individual guide (1 time on the summit), Igor Pokhvalin as Doctor (1 time on summit) and Mingma Gelu as Sirdar (8 times on summit). www.7summits-club.com Adventure Peaks
SummitClimb
Adventure Dynamics
The South African outfitter is displaying six clients, two guides and eight sherpas on a fully-supplied, O2 supported expedition on Everest north side normal route.
http://www.adventuredynamics.co.za/adi6.html Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, plus Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.
www.kobler-partner.ch World Records Expeditions and Treks
WRET team climbers are Bill Fisher (from California), Julio Bird (Wisconsin/Puerto Rico), and Hoshino Kohei (from Japan). Sherpa are Lhakpa Gelu (17-18 summits), Lhopsang (2 summits) and Geljen (1 summit). Lhakpa Gelu is also well known for his record speed in ascending Everest, thus the company name.
www.everest-fisher.blogspot.com 2010chomolungmaexpedition.blogspot.com PH German-Austrian expedition
Led by Jochen Hemmleb, the team officialy aims to summit Everest. Climbers on the spot stated tht they are also looking for Irvine's remains/camera. Other members are Austrians Josef (Sepp) Bachmair, Theodor Fritsche, Guenther Goeberl, Alexander Naglich and Gerald Salmina, plus German Volker Franz Holzner.
Lhotse
Meagan McGrath back for more
After her solo, partial Antarctica ski this winter (Patriot Hills-South Pole), Canuck Aerospace Engineer Meagan McGrath will lead a trekking group to Everests BC and then climb Lhotse, before attempting K2 in summer.
www.meaganmcgrathadventurer.com Kazakh National team
ast spring, the Kazakh National team tried the unclimbed Lhotse-Everest traverse, with no O2 or porters. The final summit push ended up with retreat in bad conditions and the loss of team member Serguey Samoilov. Now the team will return - for Lhotse only this time though.
The team's core will consist mainly of the leading members of CSKA (Central Sports Club of Kazakh Army) that led the 2009 attempt: Max Zhumayev, Vaso Pivtsov (just back from a winter attempt on Kwande Lho), Evgeniy Shutov and Alex Sofrygin. Some younger members of CSKA may be included in the team too. www.mountain.kz Marco Confortola+K2 Sherpa rescuer Pasang
2008 K2 survivor Marco Confortola will climb Lhotse, together with Pasang Lama from the Bhote family. Pasang was one of the Sherpas who saved Marco on K2.
www.marcoconfortola.it Finnish joint Everest-Lhotse expedition
Tomi Myllys plus Joni Kirtola are headed for Lhotse while their mate Mikko Vermass, with whom they share BC, will attempt Everest.
www.mountaineering.fi Spanish Lina Quesada
Lina Quesada is sharing permit and BC with a Mexican group, but otherwise climbing independently on Lhotse. She has previously summited Everest, Cho Oyu, and GII.
con-lina-quesada.blogspot.com SummitClimb
SummitClimb's Everest leader Arnold Coster will also guide a group attempting Lhotse.
www.kingabaranowska.comsummitclimb.com IMG
Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, plus Lhotse and Makalu.
www.kobler-partner.ch Annapurna double-headers
Edurne Pasabans ultimate double-header for the 14x8000ers
Spanish (Basque) Edurne Pasaban is placing a double-or-nothing bet on her two final 8000ers,Annapurna and Shisha Pangma, by climbing them both in spring this year. After Chinese authorities refused her a Shisha climbing permit until April, Edurne will first face a lonely Annapurna, and then launch her fifth attempt on Shisha Pangma via its noth side.
Edurne is again leading regular partners Alex Chicon, Asier Izaguirre and cameraman Ferran Latorre, plus Nacho Orviz. A filming team by Al Filo de lo Imposible (on the edge of the impossible) Spanish TV documentary series will be there too. www.edurnepasaban.net www.endesayedurnepasaban.com blogs.rtve.es/alfilo/posts Jae-Soo Kim's Kolon Sports South Korean expediton
Partner of the late Mi-Sun Go, 10x8000ers summiteer Jae-Soo Kim is continuing her (and his own) 14x8000er project.
S.Korea Expressway Corporation Team
Mi-Gon Kim, Hong-Bin Kim are heading to Annapurna after Manaslu.
himalman.wordpress.comS. Korea's Busan Hope Expedition
The team led by Chang-Ho Kim aims for 4x8000er this year: Kangchenjunga and Annapurna in spring, plus Nanga Parbat in summer and Shisha Pangma in fall.
Annapurna
Oh Eun-Sun: the final
Racing faster than anyone for the 14x8000ers, South Korean Oh Eun Sun chain-climbed Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum I in just four months before dangerous conditions on Annapurna prevented her from completing her record quest. Now she is back and ready to finish the task, teaming up with Chenjinorbu Sherpa (29), who has previously summtied Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri. The expeition sums up with a BC manager, a team leader, an expedition doc and a large crew hoping to broadcast the climb live for Korean TV.
oes.blackyak.co.kr Piotr Pustelnik: The Knight's comeback
The Himalayan Knight is back to face his last 8000er for the fifth time.
www.trekandmore.plPiort is dedicating the climb to long-time friend and climbing mate Piotr Morawski, perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri last year. Morawski's death put an end to the legendary "Three Peters" (Pustelnik, Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor) who had accomplished some of the foremost Himalaya expeditions in later years. For that reason, Peter Hamor is also member in the current team, in spite of having already summited Anna. Also, Piotr has put together a team of seasoned Himalaya climbers, including Russian 11x8000er summiteer Serguey Bogomolov, also Russian Evgeny Vinogradskiy, fellow polish Kinga Baranowska (aiming for her 7th 8000er) and American Nick Rice. Sharing permit are also Romanian Horia Colibasanu and Portuguese Joao Gasrcia. Before Anna, the group will climb triky Pumori for acclimatization. Nick Rice's dispatches Joao Garcia for his final 8000er
Joao Garcia will attempt to become the first Portuguese 14x8000er summiteer on Annapurna.
www.joaogarcia.com Young-Seok Park's south face expedition
Following a new route on Everest SW face last year, South Korean 14x8000er summiteer Young-Seok Park now aims for Anna's mighty south face.
www.parkyoungseok.com Juanito Oiarzabal's 2x14 8000ers project
Decided to become the first climber to summit the 14x8000ers twice, Juanito Oiarzabal will try to turn Annapurna into his 24th 8000m+ summit. He is climbing with Tolo Calafat.
juanitooiarzabal.com Carlos Pauner for his "tough 9th"
With eight 8000ers bagged, Spanish Carlos Pauner hit a series of glitches on Shisha Pangma and Manaslu last year, now hoping for vindication on Annapurna.
Accompanying the team are doctors Jose Ramn Morandeira and Antonia Nern, two of Europe's most accomplished experts in high-altitude medicine. www.carlospauner.com grupossm.blogspot.com Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos
Spaniards Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos are back to the 8000ers after a joint attempt on K2 last summer. Back then Jorge launched a lonely push from C3 and stopped just some meters shy from the top. Jorge also attempted Kangchenjunga in spring 2009 together with Edurne Pasaban team and Juanito Oiarzabal. All of them will meet again in BC.
www.martinramos.es Xavi Arias
Xavi Arias, from Catalua, is joining the crowds of Spanish climbers aiming for Annapurna. As a training, he ran up Aconcagua and reached the top in 10 hours, on January 23rd.
Arias summited Lhotse without O2 last year, and Everest (on O2) in 2008. He will be on his second attempt on Annapurna after a first shot in 2000. www.xaviarias.cat Horia Colibasanu
Horia Colibasanu, sponsored by his hometown Timisoara hall, confirmed that he is back to Anna as a tribute to his lost friend Iaki Ochoa. Should he succeed, he would also become the first Romanian Anna summiteer.
www.horiacolibasanu.ro Ehsan Partovi-Nia
Iranian Ehsan Partovi-Nia is cimbing independently on Annapurna. Born in 1979, he previously summited Nanga Parbat in 2008.
www.mountainzone.ir Makalu
Americans Chris Warner and Marty Schmidt for a new route
Chris Warner and Marty Schmidt are headed to the south side of Makalu, hoping to climb a new route to the summit of Makalu SE (7803 meters) and then follow the SE Ridge to the (main) summit.
Chris Warner has been on 13 expeditions to 8000ers, reaching the summit of Everest (guiding three times), K2, Lhotse, Shisha Pangma (solo south side) and Cho Oyu, plus attempts on Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak. Marty is a four-time Cho Oyu summiteer (including a speed ascent and a ski descent), who also topped-out Kangchenjunga and attempted K2 from both sides. www.sharedsummits.com Ukraine expedition - SW face new route attempt
Valentin Simonenko (expedition leader) and Yuri Kruglov (team leader) are heading a strong Ukrainian team also including Serguey Pugachev, Serguey Bublik, Maksim Perevalov, Vladimir Klebansky, Andrew Kyiko, Alexander Zakolodny, Pavel Kirichek, Dmirty Venslavovsky and Igor Storozhenko, towards a new route on Makalu. Team coaches are Mstislav Gorbenko and Mikhail Zagirnjak.
www.kruglov.biz www.russianclimb.com British SE ridge new route expedition, take #3
Colin Scott is leading a British team to the SE Ridge. It is the third attempt to completely climb this immense ridge (previously Colin lead teams on 2004 and 2008)
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www.makalu2010.co.uk
Chhiring Dorje Sherpa - Chris Klinke
Chhiring Dorje Sherpa of rolwaling Excrusion is outfitting Chris Klinke (leader), Brad Johnson, Robbie Klimek and Eric Meyer (expedition Doctor) on Makalu.
k2klinke.blogspot.com Rolwaling excursion.com Field Touring Alpine - led by Fabrizio Zangrilli
American mountain guide Fabrizio Zangrilli will lead Australian/US outfitter Field Touring Alpine's first expedition on Makalu. The team includes Everest summiteer and polar skier Stuart Smith. Emilie Cortes and John Gray are also members.
www.fieldtouring.com fabriziozangrilliguiding.blogspot.com British Service SE Ridge expedition
UK military plan a second attempt on Makalu South East Ridge with team of 8 climbers drawn from across the 3 services.
raf.mod.uk Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.
www.kobler-partner.ch
Dhaulagiri
Chile's Expedicion Bicentenario
Hoping to summit Chile's 12th 8000er, Ernesto Olivares will lead Juan Andres Covarrubias Alcalde, Juan Manuel Santa Cruz Campaa, Andres Claro Gubbins, Martin Riesco Wachholtz, Marcelo Grifferos Caceres and Francisco Larrain Amuntegui on Dhaulagiri's normal route, without O2. The expedition also conmemorates Chile's 200 anniversary.
www.dhaulagiri2010.cl Austrian Ski expedition
Stephan Keck and Paul Grtler aim for a no O2, no Sherpa-supported climb and a ski descent from the summit of Dhaulagiri.
www.stephan-keck.at Iran's National expedition - a tribute to Medhi
A national expedition composed of 13 mountaineers is aiming for Dhaulagiri, lwhere fellow Iranian Mehdi etemadi-far died last year.
www.mountainzone.ir Manaslu
Carlos Soria for his 9th 8000er at 71
Veteran Spanish climber Carlos Soria hopes to tick off his Himalaya no 9 at age 71. MAtes will be Oscar Cadiach, Tente Lagunilla and Patxi Goi.
www.carlossoriaalpinista.com www.arasdelcielo.com patxigoni.wordpress.com Shisha Pangma/Cho Oyu double headers
Estonian Lithuanian Mt. Cho Oyu & Mt. Shishapangma expedition
Lithuanian Saulius Vilius is leading Ruta Tolpezninkaite (Lithuanian), Peep Kala (Estonian), Tanel Tuuleveski (Estonian), Andras Kaasik ( Estonian), Allan Valge ( Estonian), and Alar Sik (Estonian). The eam will try to climb both peaks by its classical routes. Just 2 members have previous 8000 + climbing experience.
8000m.blogspot.com
Shisha Pangma
Mario Panzeri Italian expedition
Mario Panzeri, 46, with 10x8000ers summited, is on the mountain for the third time and back in Himalaya after the fateful GII north face expedition with the late Karl Unterkircher and Daniele Bernasconi. The Shisha attempt is a training climb for and expedition to GI north face this summer.
Other members are Alberto Magliano, Floriano Lenatti, Gualtiero Colzada, Emanuele Gianera, Anna Grego, Tarcisio Giordani and Matteo Moro. www.montagna.org Mark Hose
Zimbawean-born Mark Hose is currently gearing up for his fourth attempt on Shisha Pangma. Outfitted by Asian Trekking, Mark will train in Lantang area and then move to Tibet by April 8 for a climb without O2 or porters until (at least) Shisha Central summit. "Then, depending on conditions, I'll continue along the arte to the Main Summit," he told ExWeb.
8000m.blogspot.com Al Filo de lo Imposible - Edurne on her ultimate 8000er
Edurne Pasaban plans to attempt Shisha Pangma from mid-April, hopefully after having turned Annapurna into her 13th 8000er. She will climb together with Alex Chicon, Asier Izaguirre and Nacho Orviz. A TV filming crew will accompany her until BC.
www.edurnepasaban.net blogs.rtve.es/alfilo/posts Mexican Jorge Salazar
Mexican Jorge salazar is attempting Shisha Pangma north side. He has previously summited Everest and Broad Peak; last year he attempted Makalu .
www.sagaeverest.com.mx Amical Alpin
Cho Oyu
SummitClimb
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Eric Remza is leading William McGahan, Ted Hedberg, Christopher Lane, Kerrie McMartin, Gordon Gears, Gene Pelizzoni and Brian McEachern on this fully-supplied expedition.
www.mountainguides.com/cho-oyu10.shtml Adventure Peaks
Amical Alpin
Kari Kobler & Partner
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