Newsflash: Maxut & Vassily SUMMIT Everest - without O2!

Posted: Apr 30, 2007 12:40 pm EDT

( Alex Abramov has just released the news from Everest's north side ABC: "Seems like the first Everest summit this season has just taken place! One our ago, at 6 p.m. Chinese time, Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev have called on the radio from the summit of Everest!"

Second summit push in two days

"The two climbers launched a summit push from 7,900m last night at 10 p.m.," Abramov wrote. "They have topped-out with no supplementary O2 or Sherpa support."

Maxut and Vassily had already launched a summit push last week, which was twarted by bad weather conditions at the North Col. By Friday they were back in ABC but not for long.

Going down

According to Alex's report, the Kazakhs reached the summit at approximately the same time HiMex's Sherpas fixed ropes on the upper sections of the route. Maxut and Vassily are currently descending, hoping to go down as low as possible and stop by nightfall. "At the worst case, they will sleep at 8,300m," Abramov reported, adding weather conditions are currently good, with no strong wind.

Everest is the young climbers' 11th 8,000er.

Maxut Zhumayev, who was born on Jan. 1, 1977, and Vassily Pivtsov, born on Aug. 16, 1975, were both experienced climbers before venturing into the Himalayas and had both been awarded several times for their climbing achievements in the former Soviet Union. Both have summited 11, 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen or the help of hired high-altitude porters. Of the 14 peaks, the two still have Everest, Lhotse, K2 and Manaslu left to climb. Maxut and Vassily are part of a National Army team coached by Ervand Iljinsky.

Next in line for the Kazakhs is K2, via its NW ridge, which they will climb this summer.


"The Kazakhs only required a small puff from one bottle of oxygen and hot drinks from the sherpas - and they walked down under their own power, so well down," reported Duncan Chessell. "They are safely snoring in the tent two meters from mine." Image of Vassily (left) and Maxut courtesy of Russian Climb (click to enlarge).