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Duncan Chessell: Manny Pizarro robbed and abandoned by Sherpa after summiting Everest - being helped down by DCXP's sirdar

Posted: May 17, 2007 01:30 pm EDT

(MountEverest.net) It seems the north side of Everest is still "out of control," so to speak. This is a report just posted by DCXP's leader Duncan Chessell:

"Manuel Pizarro, a.k.a. Manny the Canadian, whose BC logistics are provided by Arun treks and climbing with a personal high-altitude Sherpa summited today (May 17) with borrowed crampons (from DCXP) after his were stolen," Duncan wrote. "Then he ran out of oxygen at the Second Step on the way down, and his Sherpa abandoned him but the worse was yet to come."

Mannys High Camp gone Sherpa included

"In fact, when Manny got back to High Camp at 8,300m he found out his tent, stove, and extra oxygen had been all cleaned out, and his faithless Sherpa was nowhere to be seen" Duncan said. "Luck was on his side though, as DCXPs Sirdar Namgia Sherpa swooped in. He is the same Sherpa who assisted the Kazakh climbers a couple of weeks ago (who did not pay for the oxygen used or give any tips or thanks to the Sherpas who saved them or thanks for the Chinese tent they used.)." Ed.Note: Abramov previously reported on the Kazakhs having rejected bottled O2 in order to keep their climb O2-free. There are contradictory reports on the name, number, and expedition membership of the Sherpas who helped them. A complete, first-hand report from Kazakhs Maxut and Vassily is yet expected.

On the way down together with Namgia

"Namgia Sherpa gave the Canadian two bottles of oxygen, and the two of them are now descending. The last time they checked in was just below High Camp at 8,200m, at noon, Nepal time. If there is an award for best and fairest Sherpa, it would have to go to Namgia so far."

As for Manny himself, he sent an elated voice dispatch to his home team from the summit earlier today.

Abramov: Thefts and one more casualty?

Meanwhile, 7Summits club leader Alex Abramov has reported on his first summit team having found tents damaged by the wind at the North Col, and "only two bottles of O2 stolen."

"Out of 18 cylinders previously cached on the Col, now only 16 remain," wrote Abramov, who estimates about 200 people have passed by the place on their summit bids this week. "It is not terrible yet, since we have some extra stock of oxygen. But it will be really bad, if we miss oxygen in the higher camps at 7,700 and 8,300m."

On the expedition's website, Alex also reports on the Japanese climber who perished yesterday near the summit (according to Abramov, he died at the Second Step), and a further casualty today this latter fact is not yet confirmed though, and no name has been provided.


"When Manny got back to High Camp at 8300m he found out his tent, stove, ad extra oxygen had been all cleaned out, and his faithless Sherpa was nowhere to be seen," repoted Duncan. "DCXP's sirdar Namgia Sherpa gave the Canadian 2 bottles of oxygen and the two of them are now descending. Latest time they checked in just below High Camp at 8200m." Live image over Contact 4.0 of Namgia Sherpa courtesy of Duncan's DCXP (click to enlarge).