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Everest and Himalaya wrap-up: Uncertainty over Tibet visas, Everest Sherpas rock-climbing, Annapurna ladies meeting over tea

Posted: Apr 05, 2010 03:30 pm EDT

The situation concerning entry visas to Tibet is still unclear. In Nepal, teams headed for Everest south side may find the route up the Icefall fixed by the time they reach BC. On Annapurna, Miss Oh and Edurne are meeting for a cup of tea today.

Tibet-bound teams: climbing permits check, visa not so much

Climbing permits in hand by Friday several teams heading for Everest north side and Cho Oyu planned to cross the border this Easter weekend but a new hurdle is that paperwork from Lhasa concerning visa issued by China Embassy got stuck on the road.

Everest north side: one more no-O2 team

Dreher 24 Everest Expedition members Dávid Klein and László Várkonyi are also on the way to Tibet, aiming for the first Hungarian no-O2 Everest summits.

According to their latest dispatch, they left Kathmadu for Kodari last Friday, hoping their entry visas would be delivered there on Saturday morning.

Everest south side: John reporting from Namche

The No Guts Know Glory Canada West Expedition climbed into Namche Bazaar yesterday, John O'Shaughnessy reported to ExplorersWeb.com. After two nights spent here acclimatizing, we will head for Tengboche tomorrow. With us in Namche is a team from Argentina, some of the group climbing with IMG, the team led by the Benegas brothers, Adventure Consultants and some climbers from Jagged Globe. We heard that Dave Hahn and the climbers with First Ascent rolled out yesterday before we arrived.

From all accounts things are coming together nicely at Base Camp, John added. IMG has brought 10,000 feet of high quality static line to fix in place and replace the old Korean lines teams used last year. From the sounds of things, most of the expeditions have agreed to share the cost of the ropes. Yak trains are cruising by the climbers moving up the valley headed to base camp. Most teams should be in place at base camp within the next 7 to 10 days.

Icefall Docs at work

Meanwhile in BC, the Icefall Doctors are already at work fixing route through the Khumbu Icefall.

They made a brief appearance in the Icefall on Monday and then I caught a glimpse of them again descending on Wednesday, Altitude Junkies leader Phil Crampton reported. A few of them swung by our camp for tea and described how the route will most likely follow the same route as it did in the fall of 2009, Phil added.

AJ team members reached Phakding yesterday and plan to hit EBC on April 9th.

Everest Sherpa sports-climbing competition

In the the first sports-climbing competition for Everest Sherpa workers, held last Saturday in Kathmandu, competitors climbed in the same teams they will make on Everest, while expedition leaders footed the $10 per person competition fee.

11 Sherpas from 7 Summits Club; 11 Sherpas from Asian Trekking and 2 Sherpas from Project-Himalaya took part, with Abramov team members bagging the 1st, 3rd and 4th prizes, and a pair from Asian-trekking getting the second spot.

"Ang Tshering Sherpa, president of Nepal Mountaineering Association, offered to turn the competition into an annual event to include all Everest expeditions," 7 Summits-club crew reported.

The competition was organized by Alexander Abramov of 7Summits-Club and Dawa Sherpa of Asian Trekking.

Eco Everest: Dawa awarded, Apa for his 20th

Apa Sherpa will set off from Kathmandu in a few days, aiming to break his own record by summitting Everest for the 20th time. He is also carrying a flag commemorating Nepal Tourism Year 2011 and a canister with ashes belonging to Edmund Hillary. Apa is climbing leader of Eco Everest, headed by Dawa Steven Sherpa who was awarded the International Olympic Committee Award for Sports and Environment, in a press conference held in KTM, April 1st.

Annapurna: racers face to face

Oh Eun-Sun and the Korean TV crew reached Anna BC yesterday. Journalists ran to interview rival Edurne Pasaban, who was in BC waiting out a bad weather spell. It was nice to chat with them, they were all extremely kind, Edurne wrote afterwards.

Beyond the cultural clash, we are not that different were just humans with a heart and feelings, the Spaniard commented. Edurne expected to meet with Miss Oh for a cup of tea today.

Pasaban and team have fixed up ropes up to C3, where they have set up two tents and left some rope ready to fix the headwall. Our work on the mountain is done, she said. Now we need patience for the weather to improve, before going for the last stage of the climb.

Fellow Spaniard Carlos Pauner reported his team has done a day trip un the mountain, in order to set up C1.

Pumori climbers back to civilization

Kinga Baranowska provided more details on her recent Pumori climb. After the night spent at 6,400 meters, Piotr Pustelnik felt bad and turned back, accompanied by Peter Hamor. The rest of the team pushed further up to about 7,000m. It got too late to reach any higher, Kinga reported. Progress was slow breaking trail in fresh snow.

The remaining climbers returned to the tents and even considered to give the summit another shot the following day. However, they finally decided to return to BC.

Luckily, Piotr is not seriously ill we can proceed back to civilization and then to Annapurna, Kinga ended.

Annapurna waste management

Nick Rice, Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos are trekking to Annapurna BC. Rice reported a trail of garbage en route. We set up camp among the remnants of the Korean Expeditions debris, he wrote last weekend. They left quite a bit of trash behind; all the labels were in Korean, so there was no mistake as to whos trash it was, Rice said.

Edurne's team members Alex and Asier actually spent some hours retrieving trash in Anna BC last week, which they stated belonged to a Korean team whose members had attempted to climb the mountain in fall 2009.

Dhaulagiri: Iranians in C1

Iranian National team members set up C1 on Dhaulagiri NE ridge and climbed up to 6,000 last Friday, according to IMZ News.

Links to 2010 teams:

Everest south side

No Guts Know Glory

Manoel Morgado

Australian Brad Jackson & Sandy Hoby

Ta Loeffler

Altitude Junkies

Anne-Mari Hyryläinen (AJ)

Peak Freaks

Alpine Ascents

Adventure Consultants



Malta team

Eco Everest


Mountain Madness

Expedition Hanesbrand


Dream Guides

Kari Kobler


Simone Moro

Finnish expedition

Cleo Weidlich

Everest north side

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Alfredo Garcia - La Rioja expedition

Hungarians - Dreher 24

Jordan Romero


7-Summits Club

Adventure Dynamics


Meagan McGrath

Kazakh National team

Marco Confortola


Edurne Pasaban

Ferran Latorre

Oh Eun-Sun

Kinga Baranowska

Nick Rice

Carlos Pauner

Joao Garcia

Xavi Arias

Juanito Oiarzabal

Horia Colibasanu

Martin Ramos

Peter Hamor

Park Young-Seok


Chris Warner & Marty Schmidt
Field Touring Alpine
Russian Climb


Chilean Bicentenario expedition

Iran Mountain Zone


Carlos Soria

Tente Lagunilla

Patxi Goñi

Shisha Pangma

Mark Hose


#Mountaineering #topstory

Everst Sherpa climbers taking part in the sport-climbing competition. Center of the image: Apa Sherpa (in green) and Alexander Abramov.
courtesy 7-Summits Club
No Guts Know Glory team in Namche Bazaar.
Image by John O'Shaughnessy courtesy John O'Shaughnessy/No Guts Know Glory
Hungarian Everest team members in Kathmandu.
courtesy Dreher 24 Everest Expedition
Edurne Pasaban during an interview with Korean journalists in Annapurna BC yesterday.
courtesy Al Filo de lo Imposible - TVE, SOURCE