Everest update: The wind rules

Posted: May 21, 2010 11:00 am EDT

(ExWeb/Madrid) High winds picking up on Tuesday night and blowing all day long yesterday divided teams on the current summit push on Everest south side. Some battled the gale on the way and in C3, while others chose to stay in C2 for one more day.

Front line climbers planned to reach C4 today and set off towards the summit tonight.

On Everest north side, the wind has got teams stuck at the North Col for days but climbers are still confident that weather will improve enough to let them top-out before the monsoon sets in.

Meanwhile, Gerlinde and Ralf have reached the North Col from Odells route, hoping for a No O2 summit chance on Monday.


Last Sunday, both Meteo Exploration and Expedition Weather showed high to very high winds May 17-21 with lower winds starting May 21/22.

Today's (May 21) forecasts show wind speeds up to 80 knots (152 km/h) dropping fast from tomorrow to around 35 knots and then to below 30 knots by May 24.

Summits reports

Watchmaker Michael Kobold and his team reached the summit of Mt. Everest May 17th , a press released read. This is the second Everest summit for the Pittsburg resident Kobold, who climbed from the south side in Dream Guides team. On the summit with him were his wife Anita, Ang Namgel Sherpa, Thundu Sherpa, Dr. Robert Casserley and guide Kenton Cool.

The Tibetan and Chinese team fixed the route to summit and got a lot of their members on the top, Dan Mazur reported yesterday from the north side. Some other teams also summited: some Taiwanese and a Polish climber named Magdalena, who reached the summit on the 18th.

Weather buzz

The monsoon is fast approaching this year - it might hit the central Himalayas on the 27th, Summit Climb reported, based on Dan Mazur forecasts for Everest north side. Peak Freaks leader Tim Rippel, currently on the south side BC, reported on lightening and big booms of thunder coming from the valley below created by the onset of the monsoon.

It's a tad early and seems to happening that way more each year, home team Becky added. Becky also reported on two cyclones hitting India yesterday they caused a large number of casualties and forced evacuation for 45,000 people from coastal areas. In other words, the spin off winds that Everest climbers endured through the night were significant, she wrote.

Everest south side

MountainTrip members set off towards C3 but changed their mind at the base of the Lhotse face: The winds really began picking up and they decided the prudent decision was to head back to Camp 2 for the night, Bill told his home team. They are trying to reach C3 today in hopefully decreasing winds. Alpine Ascents team decided likewise.

Altitude Junkies are also moving up to C3 today, aiming for a Sunday summit. We are told there are many groups going for it on the evening of the 21st hoping to summit on the morning of the 22nd so we have decided to try and avoid the larger crowds by going a day later, Phil Crampton said.

Adventure Consultants group reached C3 in spite of the wind. We knew that today was not going to be an easy one. When the team arrived early this afternoon they were experiencing gusts of up to 40 knots, they reported. However, the winds are dropping and our forecasts support this continuing trend.

Other teams who reached C3 yesterday and will be likely proceeding to C4 on the South Col today are: IMG, Himex and Asian Trekking, according to Eric Simonson. Finding Life members Ellia and Allain are also in C3, using O2 and hoping to reach C4 today. The Finnish Ev.-Lhotse team is already in C3, where they had to repair some tents ripped off by the wind.

According to RMI team, whose members moved from BC to C2 yesterday, yesterday there was noone in position for a summit attempt at the South Col bids may however start tonight, should the wind drop.

Odell Route: Gerlinde & Ralf on summit push

"On Wednesday, 19th May, Gerlinde and Ralf left base aiming for weather window forecast for 23rd and 24th of May, Gerlinde team reported. The couple reached the North Col at 7,200m via the Odell Route on Thursday. They are planning to spend another day at the Col. According to the weather forecast, Monday will be the best possible summit day.

Everest north side

Five of our members and 2 of our Sherpas are on the North Col and have been there for several days, Dan Mazr reported. They are trying to move to camp 2, but it's been too windy and difficult to go up. Other teams have tried to go up to camp 2 and turned around. They're hoping they can go (today) in the morning.

The first group is blocked at the North Col (7000 m) by strong winds - for the second day, no one could go up, Alex Abramov confirmed. Sherpas were unable to carry loads to the upper camps. Wind is supposed to drop tonight, but snowfalls are expected in upcoming days - will it be a good window?

Silvio Mondinelli and his team reached C1 (North Col) yesterday.

Links to 2010 Everest teams:

Everest south side

No Guts Know Glory

Ta Loeffler

Altitude Junkies

Anne-Mari Hyryläinen (AJ) - SkyClimbers

Albert Bosh

Colombian expedition

Chad Kellogg speed attempt

Mountain Trip

Peak Freaks

Alpine Ascents

Paul & Denise Fejtek (MT)

Patrick Hollingworth

Adventure Consultants



Elia Sailaky - finding life

Adventures Global

Malta team

Eco Everest


Mountain Madness

Expedition Hanesbrand


Dream Guides

Kari Kobler


Adrian Ballinger - Alpenglow

Michael Kobold


Simone Moro

Finnish expedition

Cleo Weidlich

Everest north side

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Silvio mondinelli

Alfredo Garcia - La Rioja expedition

Hungarians - Dreher 24

Jordan Romero


7-Summits Club

Adventure Dynamics

Duncan Chessell

Adventure Peaks

Bill Fisher

Bill Burke

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner climbing in the spindrift.
Image by Ralf Dujmovits courtesy R.Dujmovits/Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, SOURCE
Canadian Finding Life team members in their C3 tent.
courtesy Finding Life, SOURCE
Satellite Images showing conditions in India and the Himalayas on May17th (left) and May 20th (right).
courtesy Peak Freaks, SOURCE