Pakistan wrap-up: Nanga summits, Basques back after BP north

Posted: Jul 12, 2010 04:21 pm EDT

Iranian, Nepalese and Korean climbers summited Nanga Parbat on Saturday while the Basques on Broad Peak were pushed back - for now. A small alpine-style Korean team retreated on GV.

A century back it was called "yellow journalism" - now it's dubbed "parachute journalism" - or reporters unfamiliar with a subject making up juicy and biased stories. A long report in a British paper portraits Alison Heargraves as a victim of domestic violence, quoting unpublished diary entries, and announcing bold plans of her son Tom to solo K2 in winter.

In the news: Heargraves son to solo K2 in winter?

Alison Heargraves son Tom, currently 21, intends to climb K2 solo and in winter, according to a report in UKs Daily Mail. The paper notes that the young Tom Ballard, currently trying to find sponsorship for the project, has no previous Himalayan climbing experience, but hopes the feat will attract press enough to help him to get notoriety as a future mountain guide. No dates have been scheduled for the expedition, which would comprise Tom, his father Jim, sister Kate, and TV documentary-maker Chris Terrill.

The article also reports on the late Alisons personal life. Today, using previously unpublished excerpts from her diaries, I can reveal new details of her personal tragedy - including shocking details of her violent marriage to husband Jim Ballard and why she hoped her audacious attempt on the most dangerous mountain on earth would help her escape from him, the paper reads. Check the story in the links section.

Nanga Parbat: Summits!

Iranian Azim Gheychi-Saz, along with two Nepalese and three Korean climbers summited Nanga at 2:00pm local time, on July 10th, Iran Mountain Zone news reported. Dynamic Busan 2010 team summited Nanga Parbat at13:30pm, local time on July 9th, ExWeb correspondent Kyu Dam Lee confirmed.

Summiteers were Sung-Ho Suh, Chang-Ho Kim and Jin-Tae Kim, Kyu added. They topped-out in bitter cold and strong wind without O2 or Sherpa support.

"Mingma Sherpa, one of the Nepalese summiteers, is the first Sherpa to summit 12 different main 8000ers," stats expert Rodrigo Branzotto noted from Brazil. "Kim Chang-Ho is the second climber, after Reinhold Messner, to summit Nanga Parbat Both Sides (Rupal Flank in 2005 and Diamir Flank in 2010)."

Ed. Note: Dates are yet to be confirmed; discrepancies between Iran and Korea reports may be caused by different time zones.

Broad Peak: High winds force Basques back

Basques Alberto, Juan and Mikel topped out Broad Peak north summit Friday (check an update in the previous wrap-up published at Exweb). Strong winds prevented them from completing the traverse though. This was just a starter, 14x8000er summiteer Iñurrategi told his home team. Were definitely going for a second round as soon as conditions improve.

We left our tent on a Col reason enough to return, Mikel Zabalza chimed in.

The Basque team is climbing a new route. Gerfried Göschl from Austria noted a previous attempt on that line. I think the Basques are climbing the same route a small German team attempted back in 1983, Gerfried told ExWeb over email. They had camps at 6000m, 6400m and 6800m. It´s unclear if they reached the col or the north summit, because the only member who climbed above 6800m never came back. Leader was Hubert Weinzierle (German alpine club).

Note that my words should not diminish the Basque performance, they are outstanding climbers and will do something never done before, Gerfried added.

Meanwhile on the normal route, FTA has fixed the route up to C3. Theyve made a deposit of tents and all members have spent a night in C2, home member Stu told ExplorersWeb.

Back in BC to rest, Luis and Kat enjoy bucket-showers while tuning in on BC buzz. Word on the street is that yet another team was turned back from their summit attempt by thigh-deep snow above C3, Luis reported.

Gasherbrum V: Korean failed push

K2 Extreme Expedition members Hyoung-Il Kim, Sang-Woo Lee and Ji-Myuong Jang tried to summit G5 (7,147m) yesterday in alpine style, Kyu Dam Lee reported. Difficult conditions and exhaustion forced them back at about 6,550 m though.

Back in BC, expedition leader Hyoung-Il Kim reportedly stated: Not having reached GV summit wont stop us from facing new challenges on huge Himalayan walls.

GII: Pushes, retreats and delays

Our original plan to go for the summit on the 12th was aborted to the high winds that we can see from base camp hammering Gasherbrum I and by our updated weather forecasts, AJ leader Phil crampton reported yesterday.

The teams who are presently in camp three and planning to go for the summit have a time restraint at base camp and have to depart soon. We hope the weather holds for them and the wind speeds allow them a realistic shot at the top."

"Our Gasherbrum II climbers still have two weeks remaining and the GII/GI climbers have over a month left at base camp so we have decided to wait for a more favorable weather window with manageable wind speeds.

Czechs Radek, Libor and Petr seemingly reached C3 and beyond before retreating.

The icefall and cwm has revealed many large crevasses since we made our last rotation to camp one around a week ago, Altitude Junkies reported. 99% of climbers present this season are roping up in teams of two or three but we are still concerned by seeing a single female climber travelling alone and unroped, much against the advice of all the other climbers who pass her on the route.

A serac falling from GVI caused an avalanche affecting the GI/GII joint route to C1.

GI: Bowie/Bolotov at 7,500m

July 10, Don Bowie checked in over sat-phone from C3 on Hidden Peak announcing 7500m reached on the acclimatization round. Don and Alexei planned to return to BC yesterday.

K2: Teams to C3

We are heading to C2, hoping to fix the route to C3 Giuseppe Pompili reported yesterday. The climbers are working with Leilas 2 porters. That way we won´t have to rely on anyone else in order to have the way to C3 opened. In fact, ropes are not essential above C3 except for the Traverse at 8,300m.

Meanwhile, Gerlinde and Ralf have slept at about 7000 meters on the Cesen, just below the 'true' C3," the report said. "If all goes well, today the strong pair will reach C3 before a bad weather spell scheduled for the13th.

Concordia: Keep Baltoro Clean team collects 4tons of trash

4000 kg of waste has been collected from Concordia since May 10 by the Keep Baltoro Clean" expedition, launched by the EvK2Cnr Committee. In addition, the crew installed 8 eco toilets at Concordia Circus and transported eighty drums of human waste downhill to Paiju to be burned in an earth incinerator.

The toilets were carried, piece by piece, by porters from Askole.

The clean-up team, all Pakistanis trained by Maurizio Gallo (expedition leader of this as well as K2 clean-up expedition coming up in the following weeks) will continue the work on the Glacier until end August.

The collection at the K2, GI, GII and Broad Peak base camps (approximately 5,500 m altitude) must be completed. The snow is still heavy there and covers part of the waste let there during the last season, organizers stated.

Links to 2010 Pakistan teams:


Fredrik Ericsson

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Giuseppe Pompilli

Kinga Baranowska

Marcin Miotk

Polish expedition info - FB

Anna Czerwinska

Mike Horn's Pangaea expedition

News on Leila Esfandyari - IMZ

Broad Peak

BAT Basque traverse team

Slovakia Marmota expedition

Field Touring Alpine - blog

Meagan McGrath (with FTA)

Louis and Kat (logistics with FTA)

Fabrizio Zangrilli

Petter Nyquist & Alexander Gammer

Nanga Parbat

Artur Hajzer's Polish Winter Himalayism

Cleo Weidlich


Radek Jaros

Petr Masek

Libor Uher

Waldemar Niclevicz: BP+GI

Don Bowie: GIII+GIV

Altitude Junkies

Arian Lemal

Ludovic Challeat

Colombian Expedition dispatches


Kari Kobler - blog

Lesser Peaks

David Falt: Latok I
#Mountaineering #topstory

Alberto, Juan and Mikel topped out Broad Peak north summit Friday but strong winds prevented the traverse.
courtesy Basque BAT team, SOURCE
Luis Benitez having sushi for lunch yesterday in BP BC. Live image over Contact 5.0.
courtesy Luis Benitez, SOURCE
Colombian BC - Hidden Peak glowing in back. Image sent live over Contact 5.0 last week.
courtesy Colombian GI expedition, SOURCE
Waste management at Concordia glacier junction.
courtesy EvK2Cnr -, SOURCE