Everest & Himalaya 2010 Seasons End Chronicle, Take 1: 8000er Collectors, Everest Serial Summiteers and Lost Climbers

Posted: Aug 18, 2010 07:25 pm EDT

Here goes a spring flashback right before the post-monsoon season kisks off: ExWeb's contributor Brazilian Rodrigo Granzotto Peron has done a massive job compiling facts, dates, records, names and comments on the hectic Himalayan 2010 climbing season.

The result is too huge to wrap it up in a single story, so this time we have divided the massive amount of information into several topics.

On this first part, Peron provides a general overview of the season that follows with an update of the 8000er collectors' status, which is a list of the remarkable Everest serial summiteers, and a reminder of those lost to the highest mountains on earth.

There is also a final status with the season's summits on 8000ers, in absolute numbers.

Everest & Himalaya 2010 Seasons end Chronicle
by Rodrigo Granzotto Peron


Major action was seen on Everest, Annapurna, Makalu and Shisha Pangma. We had scarce activities on Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu and Kangchenjunga. Like last year, one peak received almost all the spotlights. In Spring 2009 it was Kangchenjunga. Now, it was Annapurna's time.

During the Spring Season there were registered more than 650 summits on all 8000ers. Shishapangma now passed the 300-ascents mark; Manaslu 400; Cho Oyu 3000; and Everest has now more than 5000 ascents, by more than 3000 different climbers.

After 2008, that passed in blank, and 2009, with only two ascents without bottled oxygen (Ludovic Challeat and Frank Ziebarth), this year we got several NOOX occurrences, according with preliminary reports: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc, Michele Enzio and Marco Camandona. Gerlinde is the fifth lady climber to summit NOOX and the fourth by the Tibetan route (Lydia Bradey remains the only female to summit without oxygen from Nepal). Gnaro is the 18th person to summit twice NOOX (the second from Italy), and the eighth to summit Everest both sides without using oxygen.

Interesting to note that some main and subsidiary 8000ers had special birthday parties in the spring:

May 12 40 years of Lhotse Shar
May 13 50 years of Dhaulagiri
May 15 55 years of Makalu
May 25 55 years of Kangchenjunga
June 3 60 years of Annapurna

Also several famous 7000ers, including 50 years of the first ascents of Api, Annapurna II, Himalchuli and Disteghil Sar; 40 years of Dhaulagiri VI; and 30 years of Yebokangal II and Varaha Shikhar.

Still, it was the special anniversary of some very hard routes on 8000ers:

April 24 20 years of the conquest of the S Face of Lhotse, by Tomo Cesen

April 24 25 years of the conquest of the NW Face of Annapurna, by Messner and Kammerlander

May 10 30 years of the conquest of the Supercouloir on the N Face of Everest, by a Japanese party

May 11 15 years of the conquest of the NE Ridge Complete of Everest, by a Japanese party

May 14 30 years of the conquest of the Central Rib on the NW Face of Kangchenjunga, also by a Japanese party

May 27 40 years of the conquest of the British Route on the S Face of Annapurna, by Don Whillans and Dougal Haston

Last but not least, one of the most famous lines on the 8000ers, the Tibetan regular route of Everest (N Col), was set on May 25, 50 years ago, by Gombu, Wang Fu-Zhou, and Xu In-Huang. So far, almost 1900 ascents by it, that is only surpassed by the Nepalese regular route of Everest (S Col), with more than 3000 ascents, and the Tichy route on Cho Oyu (approaching 3000 ascents).

And, finally, in the year of the World Cup of Soccer in South Africa we witness an invasion of South African climbers on Everest. Ten summits in all, including second ascents by Sean Disney and Vaughan de la Harpe and the first lady climber to complete the Seven Summits: Amanda Ramsden. This was the most successful season for the African continent of all time.


14 João Garcia (POR)
14 Piotr Pustelnik (POL)
14 Oh Eun-Sun (S.K.)
14 Edurne Pasaban (SPA)

13 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (AUT)
13 Maxut Zhumayev (KAZ)
13 Serguey Bogomolov (RUS)
13 Vassili Pivtsov (KAZ)

11 Mario Panzeri (ITA)
11 Mingma I Sherpa (NEP)

10 Jorge Egocheaga Rodriguez (SPA)
10 Kim Chang-Ho (S.K.)

09 Carlos Pauner (SPA)
09 Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa (NEP)

08 Kazuyoshi Kondo (JAP)
08 Ra Kwan-Ju (S.K.)

07 Alex Txikón (SPA)
07 Evgeny Vinogradsky (RUS)
07 Kim Mi-Gon (S.K.)
07 Kinga Baranowska (POL)
07 Pema Tshering Sherpa (NEP)
07 Renzo Benedetti (ITA)

06 Asier Izaguirre (SPA)
06 Kang Yeong-Ryong (S.K.)
06 Kim Hong-Bin (S.K.)
06 Martin Ramos (SPA)
06 Nacho Orviz (SPA)
06 Seo Sung-Ho (S.K.)
06 Tshering Dorje III Sherpa (NEP)
06 Yun Chi-Won (S.K.)

Note 1: The summit of Oh Eun-Sun, Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa and Pema Tshering Sherpa on Kangchenjunga is disputed. Also is contested the summit of Juanito Oiarzabal and Carlos Pauner on Annapurna (they went out of the mountain by chopper, from C4 [c6900m], instead of climbing down). And there are strong rumors that Serguey Bogomolov and Evgeny Vinogradsky did not reach the main point of Annapurna. All these claims are under investigation.

Note 2: The complete list with all collectors will be released by the end of the Karakoram season in a special report, updated to the end of summer.


April 20: Philip Ulrich (DEN, 42) [Kyajo Ri] [fall]
April 24: Yun Chi-Won (S.K., 40) [Manaslu] [disappearance]
April 24: Park Haeng-Su (S.K., 27) [Manaslu] [disappearance]
April 26: Laszlo Várkonyi (HUN, 54) [Everest] [avalanche]
April 29: Bartolome (Tolo) Calafat (SPA, 39) [Annapurna] [AMS]
May 3: Serguey Nikitin (RUS, 53) [Cho Oyu] [HACE]
May 7: Serguey Duganov (RUS, 43) [Lhotse] [fall]
May 15: Zhao Li-Yang (CHIN, 35) [Dhaulagiri] [fall]
[Two Chinese climbers went missing on Dhaulagiri, names yet unknown]
May 19: Tom Jorgensen (DEN, 56) [Everest] [HACE]
May 25: Hiroshi Ogasawara (JAP, 63) [Everest] [collapsed]
May 26: Peter Kinloch (UK, Scotland, 28) [Everest] [stroke]
May 30: Zaharias (Haris) Kiriakakis (GRE, 44) [Makalu] [exhaustion]

Therefore, four climbers perished on EV; three on DH; two on MN; and one on AN, LH, CH and MK. Total: 13. Preliminary danger level of the 8000ers on the season is around 2.1%. Besides, one death registered on a 6000er: Kyajo Ri (6,186m).



20 Apa
18 Chuwang Nima
17 Phurba Tashi
16 Kami Rita I (Topke)
15 Dorje I
15 Mingma Tshering
15 Nima Gombu
14 Chuldim Ang Dorje
14 Lhakpa Gelu
13 Dorje Sonam Gyalzen
13 Lhakpa Rita I
12 Danuru
12 Mingma Chhiri
11 Nima Nuru
10 Ang Pasang
10 Kami (Kame)
9 Dawa Sonam
9 Son Dorje
8 Dawa Nuru II
8 Dawa Jangbu
8 Lhakpa Thundu
8 Pemba Dorje
7 Mingma Gelu
7 Rita Dorje
7 Pemba Dorje
7 Sonam Tshering


12 Dave Hahn (USA)
10 Guillermo (Willie) Benegas (ARG/USA)
9 Vernon Tejas (USA)
8 Kenton Cool (UK)
7 Mark Woodward (N.Z.)
6 Dave Morton (USA)
6 Robert Casserley (UK)
5 Charles Scott Woolums (EUA)
5 Jamie McGuiness (N.Z.)
5 Michael Brown (USA)
5 Victor Saunders (UK)
4 Heo Young-Ho (S.K.)
4 Hiroyuki Kuraoka (JAP)
4 Justin Reese Merle (USA)
4 Mike Roberts (NZ)
4 Phil Crampton (UK)
4 Yuri Contreras Cedi (MEX)
3 David Liaño Gonzalez (MEX)
3 Duncan Chessell (AUS)
3 Melissa Sue Arnot (USA)
3 Michael Aaron Hamill (USA)
3 Noel Richmond Hanna (IRL)
3 Stu Peacock (UK)

Note: Willie Benegas is the second foreign climber (except the locals Nepalis and Tibetans) to summit Everest ten times, after Dave Hahn, who still is the leader of the pack, with 12 ascents. He is also the first westerner to summit the Nepali standard route of Everest ten times (Dave Hahn has only nine, the other three were by Tibete). And Melissa Sue Arnot is the first foreign lady climber to summit Everest three times and, repeating the achievement of Lhakpa Sherpani, she is the second woman to summit three consecutive years (2008-2010).

III--And other peaks?

On Kangchenjunga, Sangay Phuri Sherpa (NEP) summited for the second time.

On Lhotse, Chewang Lendu (NEP), a high altitude Sherpa climber for IMG, topped out again, and now shares the record with Palden Namgye on the mountain: four summits. Gyalzen Dorje Sherpa (NEP) did the same as well, which makes this his second summit.

On Makalu, Tshering Dorje II Sherpa, from Rolwaling Excursion, summited for his second time.

On Cho Oyu, Maximo Kausch, from Argentina, summited for the second time. Also Panuru Sherpa (NEP), IMG guide, made it to the top. This is his fourth summit.

On Annapurna only Nepalis had summited more than once previous to this season. But in 2010 Peter Hamor (SLK) and Juanito Oiarzabal (SPA) topped out for the second time each.

On Shishapangma, Alex Txikon (SPA) succeeded for the second time (he has now summited both sides of Shisha).


Number of ascents on the 8000ers during the season:

Everest: 515
Kangchenjunga: 4
Lhotse: 18
Makalu: 20
Cho Oyu: 16
Dhaulagiri: 21
Manaslu: 16
Annapurna: 26
Shishapangma: 20

TOTAL: 656

NOTE: This Chronicle is based on preliminary data and is still under analysis. Some numbers will be revised in the following months, with possibly a few corrections made by then.

Correction Aug24: Mike Roberts is not American as previously stated, but New Zealander.

(1*)ExWeb Note, Aug26: Juanito's summit of Annapurna is valid according to mountaineering tradition and Explorersweb. The views expressed is the author's only. Check a related story here.

#Mountaineering #topstory #feature

Peaceful sight of Everest's north side at night by the end of the 2010 spring season
Image by Jamie McGuinness courtesy Jamie McGuinness/Project-Himalaya, SOURCE