K2 summit push third update: word on Abruzzi

K2 summit push third update: word on Abruzzi

Posted: Aug 05, 2010 04:15 pm EDT

11.31 pm latest update, word from the Kazakhs: ExWeb's correspondent in Kazakhstan Andrey Verkhovod just checked in reporting that no climbers on the Abruzzi route reached C4 and all have turned back down. FTA checked in shortly after stating that Fabrizio is descending to C3. A more detailed report is expected once he arrives there.

Ralf reported two newcomers on the shoulder this morning (a Polish and a Russian) none from the Abruzzi route however, making a total of 9 climbers high up.

The Cesen climbers encountered worsening weather on the summit push earlier today and had to turn back to C4. Only Gerlinde and Fredrik continued up. The remaining C4 crew were possibly to make another attempt tonight local. Ralf Dujmovits is updating from BC and there are also continuous updates on FTA's website.

8:41 pm update:

Word from FTA: Fabrizio and most of the other climbers are back in C4. Gerl and Fred are still heading up. Winds and snow are making visibilty and route sizing difficult in AM. The plan is to rest 5-6 hours and consider trying again tonight, weather and forecasts permitting.

11:15 am EST update:

Word from Ralf: Climbers have reached camp 4 on K2. Conditions are pretty good up there, and the weather forecast by Charles Gabl from Innsbruck remains positive, Ralf Dujmovits reported from K2 base camp: Summit day should be beautiful with moderate wind and 15°C.

The flip side of the warm weather are the many rocks shooting down the face, some bowling size. Camp 3 is dugout on platforms where the tents sit below a 45-degree slope. Not only Fab and Kinga but also Tamara and Darek were struck: the stone cutting through both tent walls including the sleeping pad, Ralf wrote. For this reason the climbers kept their helmets on even while trying to sleep.

The falling rocks increased up to suitcase size on the climb to the shoulder. At about 7500 meters a football-sized stone brushed Ralf's crampons. Already a K2 summiteer, Ralf made a decision to abort, in order to minimize the risk for himself and others (climbers release loose rock as they climb). He was back in BC this afternoon local time, almost simultaneously with his wife's arrival on the shoulder. A success is more important for Gerlinde with only K2 left to become the first female summiteer of all the 14 8000ers without supplementary oxygen.

Ralf will do updates from BC during the next two days. He latest spoke with Gerl at 6.30 pm today. Beside the regular crew of the Americans, Polish and Swede Fredrik Ericsson; a Russian and another Pole had just arrived. No other climber from the Abruzzi had showed on the shoulder, perhaps aborting in C3 today. Gerlinde reported many visible areas of bare ice in the Bottleneck. The climbers will head out on the final summit push at midnight local, a few hours from this publishing.

Godspeed mountaineers.

Links to teams:


Fredrik Ericsson

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Kinga Baranowska

Marcin Miotk

Polish expedition info - FB

News on Leila Esfandyari - IMZ

Field Touring Alpine - blog

Meagan McGrath (with FTA)

Louis and Kat (logistics with FTA)

Fabrizio Zangrilli

Jacek Teler

Maxut Zhumaiev

#Mountaineering #topstory

courtesy Explorersweb Inc., SOURCE