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Lhotse summit pushes are on from both sides: Marty to C3, Jordis for south face

Posted: Oct 20, 2010 06:15 pm EDT

The coolest climbs of the season are on right now on Lhotse, sieged from both sides. Marty Schmidt is climbing alone from the Khumbu side and might attempt the top tonight, while "Pirates" Tosas and Corominas were ready and waiting for conditions to take a chance on the huge south face.

Lhotse south face:

Memories from 2004's K2 Magic Line expedition flows in at watching the images illustrating this story: The so-called K2 "Pirates" Jordi Corominas and Jordi Tosas are back on track, this time dealing with the mighty south face of Lhotse.

Sebastian Alvaro, Al Filo de lo Imposible director for 25 years, has accompanied and filmed the team during an acclimatization trip up Lhotse Shar -- itself being worth an expedition!

"The team reached about 6,500 meters up a magnificent (Austrian?) route to Lhotse Shar," Sebastian told ExplorersWeb. "Later on, they acclimatized on their planned route until 6,200 meters on the Lhotse's south face."

Monday, the team was in BC at 4,700 meters in Chukhung. Since conditions were improving, yesterday they moved to the base of the face. Should the weather hold, they'll give the face a try.

News is therefore expected soon. The Jordis were climbing together with Israel Blanco, a mixed-climbing young-gun on his first Himalayan experience. Israel didn't feel well during the acclimatization trip and retreated back to BC.

Lhotse's normal route

"Everythings good," reported Marty Schmidt yesterday. "Im at 6,000 meters at the top of the ice fall. Through the valley of silence to my C2, Im going to get up early and get up the Lhotse wall. I will try for an early summit on the 21st, as I'm expecting high jetstream winds after that."

Marty is climbing Lhotse's normal route completely alone. Next week he'll head back to Ama Dablam, where he'll climb with a client.

Previously this year, Marty summited Makalu and both Gasherbrums.


The Spanish team on Lhotse Shar.
Image by Jordi Tosas courtesy Sebastian Alvaro/Jordi Tosas
Jordi Tosas (center in yellow) during an attempt to Lhotse South face last year.
Image by Sebastian Alvaro courtesy Sebastian Alvaro, SOURCE
Jordi Corominas, Jordi Tosas and israel Blanco looking tity in front of the mighty Lhotse south face.
Image by Sebastian Alvaro courtesy Sebastian Alvaro, SOURCE
A steep section during the climb on Lhotse Shar.
courtesy Sebastian Alvaro/Jordi Tosas
Lhotse Shar climbing.
courtesy Sebastian Alvaro/Jordi Tosas
Lhotse South face.
Image by Sebastian Alvaro courtesy Sebastian Alvaro, SOURCE