Himalaya wrap-up: Asian Piolet d'Or, Marty down, Cho Oyu summit claim controversy

Himalaya wrap-up: Asian Piolet d'Or, Marty down, Cho Oyu summit claim controversy

Posted: Oct 22, 2010 03:32 pm EDT

It's over for Marty Schmidt on Lhotse. The kiwy climbers have been forced back by high winds and duty: his client awaits in Pangboche to be guided up Ama Dablam.

Okada and Yokohama were awarded the Asian Piolet d'Or for a new route opened, not in the Himalayas, but on Mount Logan.

Argentina's climbing comunity has reacted with heated disccussions to Adrian Sanchez' Cho Oyu summit claim, which is otherwise sketchy.

Korea news: Piolet dOr Asia winners unveiled

Japanese Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama have won the fifth "Les Piolets dOr Asia" after their new route on Canada's Mt. Logan (5,900m), according to the decision of a jury headed by Denis Urubko. The ceremony was held in Seoul earlier today.

The first Les Piolets dOr Asia Achievement Award was given to the late Mr. Tstuneo Hasegawa. He died in an avalanche in October 1991.

As for rock climbing, Ja-In Kim received the 'Golden Climbing Shoes', while the Silver Shoes went to Hee-yong Park.

Miss Oh Eun-Sun attended to the event and sat on a place separated from Black Yak directives, ExWeb correspondent Kyu Dam Lee reported. Other climbers like Park Young-Seok, Um Hong-Gil and Kim Chang-Ho were not there.


Marty Schmidt has called it a day on Lhotse. High winds at my Camp 3 on the Lhotse Wall. (At looking at Everest) the South East Ridge is not all that good. Very high plumes... it's supposed to get to about 140, 150, 160.... If you're feeling good inside, your mind and your heart and soul wants to keep going, but the weather is telling you it's not enough, you'd better listen to it.... Otherwise, there's another disaster happening.

Marty planned to head back down to BC and Pangboche, where he will join Lee and lead him on to Ama Dablam, as soon as conditions improve: Marty reported about heavy rains soaking Pangboche and snow covering Ama Dablam BC.

Cho Oyu: Summit claim controversy -- again

Doubts increase towards the Cho Oyu summit claimed by Argentinean climber Adrian Sanchez. Adrian reportedly summited on July 7 at 2PM after setting off from C2 at 6AM (a very fast time). He had retreated on another summit attempt the previous day, due to wind and fatigue.

While details are still sketchy, ExplorersWeb has asked Adrian for summit proof and/or comments.

Story corrcted Oct23rd: The image allegedly shown as a summit picture was actually shot in C1 by expedition mate Marcelo Hernandez, as Hernandez has confirmed to ExplorersWeb. Therefore, there is no summit picture available.

Lesser peaks: Himlung

Korean climbers Lee Sang Bae (Leader), Kim Seong Sang, Jeong Su Yeol and Ms. Oh Haeng Sun summited Mt. Himlung (7,126m) on October 19, 2010, outfitter Asian Trekking reports. They started from Camp 3 (6,400m) at 2AM and reached the top at 4PM.

#Mountaineering #topstory

Marty Schmidt on Makalu in spring this year. Image by Chris Warner.
Adrian in Cho Oyu C1. Image shot by mate Marcelo Hernandez, on October 8th. Copyright Marcelo Hernandez.