Pakistan wrap-up: GII SUMMITS, Broad Peak push aborted, and more

Posted: Jul 14, 2011 04:26 pm EDT

(Angela Benavides) A group of climbers on GII managed to sneak across the closing weather window and bagged the summit yesterday as a stormy spell wrapped the Karakoram. Further attempts on GI and Broad Peak were not so lucky.

Meanwhile, new teams are arriving in BC. On Nanga, Alberto Zerain & Co are facing difficult conditions and assuming that there will be no one else to help on the route.

GII summits

According to Gerfried Göschls home team, Austrian climbers Otto Harrer, Anton Rumpl, Hubert Leitner and Dutch Elio Schijlen summited GII yesterday. They are expected back in BC today.

Details are expected though. Giuseppe Pompillli had previously reported that summit attempts on both GI and GII Thursday had failed due to strong wind and deep snow. Pompilli tried to top-out GI together with Adrian, Mario Vielmo and Silvano Forgiarini. As for GII climbers, he stated they would launch a second summit bid on July 23rd.

Meanwhile in BC, Wednesday GI summiteers Gerfried Göschl, Alex Txikon, Jose Carlos Tamayo, Ricky, Hans, Günther, Stefan, Juan Ramón Madariaga and Mario Panzeri (on his 13th 8000er!) are safely back - and celebrating- in BC.

Many of them dedicated the summit to Louis Rousseau, who turned back just a few meters shy from the top, due to exhaustion after having fixed the entire Japanese couloir on his own. When I'm tired, I tend to trip on my crampons, and so close to the summit on a unequipped route, if you fall, that's pretty much it," Louis reckoned.

The ABC team will rest in BC today and move to K2 through the weekend.

Also, the Italian GII team checked in from C3 yesterday, reporting they would try to reach the top today in spite of the wind. The team also reported on a crevasse rescue they had performed earlier this week. They helped a brit climber called Phillip out of a crevasse near BC.

News is also expected from Iranian lady climber Leila Esfandyari, who was also in C3 on full summit push. Leila attempted K2 in 2010.

A 7-men strong Iranian team is expected to arrive in BC at GII in the next few days, according to IMZ news Ehsan Darabi. He noted that five of them are planning for a double header on GI and GII.

Broad peak: No way

It couldnt be, reported Catalan Xavis from C3. We turned back at 7,800 meters. Xavi Aymar and Xavi Arias, who launched the summit push together with Argentineans Heber and Lito, and a 10-men German group, reported on too slow progress during the summit push, due to loads of fresh snow. It was 10 am when we decided to turn around . it had taken us 13 hours to climb 800 meters. The Catalans still hope for a second summit chance as soon as the weather improves.


Meanwhile, an Iranian team from Arash region is back on Broad Peak, hoping to finish a new route on the peaks south west side, which they already attempted back in 2009. They reached BC on Tuesday (July 12) and have already set C1.

K2 - north

Maxut Zhumayev confirmed to Tengrinews.kz that the international team had managed to set up a second camp at 6,400m.

Nanga Parbat

Spanish Alberto Zerain and Argentinean Leonardo Cuni Provervio were forced down by difficult conditions on a partial trip to Mazeno Peak. The climbers hoped to reach that summit as a training climb before attempting the entire mazeno ridge to Nanga Parbats main summit. After 8 hours climbing on mixed terrain and fragile ice,the two men retreated from 6,100m.

Zerains mate Txingu tried to reach the peak from a different route, but was neither successful.

The team is now back in BC, studying their next moves on the mountain.


Young pakistani female Samina Baig, together with brother Mirza Ali and a team of local guides from Shimshal region, climbed a virgin peak and named it Kohi Brobar "Mount Equality" some weeks ago, Mirza reported. Their Gender Equality Expedition hoped to promote Pakistani girls t be equally treated, and to give a message that Pakistani females are as talented and strong as others, a press release by organizer Pakistan Youth Outreach read.

The team also included Malgorzata Skowronska (Poland), Christoph Nettekoven (Germany), Jens Franke and Arshad Karim (Pakistan). The climbers followed a route on snow terrain to the top, which reportedly reached 6,008m. Read a detailed report on PYOs website.

In the news: Mountain films online

Those interested in mountain and adventure films may want to take a look at SteepEdge.com, a new website on the issue. We feature a diverse range, including extraordinary premieres, memorable classics and rare archive footage, director Brian Hall told ExplorersWeb. Brian Hall and partner John Porter were also the founding directors of the Kendal Mountain Film Festival. Films on display may be `purchased worldwide, to download or stream, to own or rent and then watch on MAC or PC, TV, or mobile device.

Links to 2011 Pakistan teams:

K2 Pakistan (south & east) side:

Kinga Baranowska
Fabrizio Zangrilli
Robert Springer
Christian Stangl

K2 China (north) side:

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Ralf's Amical
Maxut Zhumayev

Broad Peak:

Field Touring Alpine
Sophie Denis
Altitude Junkies
DAV Summit Club
Luis Stitzinger
Ryszard Pawlowski
Antunas Taiwan team
British BP expedition
Xavi Arias

Nanga Parbat:

Alberto Zerain

Gasherbrums:

Gerfried Göschl
Alex Txikon
Louis Rousseau
Giuseppe Pompilli
Jacek Teler
Kari Kobler
Carlos Pauner
Italian GII expedition
Santiago Quintero

Lower peaks & spires:

Ermanno Salvaterra
David Falt
Elisabeth Revol
#Mountaineering #topstory








Gasherbrum II.
Image by Santiago Quintero courtesy Santiago Quintero, SOURCE
ABC team in Gasherbrum BC.
courtesy GI ABC team
ABC team in Gasherbrum BC.
courtesy GI ABC team
Broad Peak BC - K2 in front.
courtesy British Broad Peak expedition 2011
Mazeno ridge - route in red to Nanga Parbat main summit.
Image by Sebastian Alvaro courtesy Sebastian Alvaro, SOURCE
Samina baig, from Shimshal.
Image by Mirza Ali courtesy Pakistan Youth Outreach, SOURCE