Himalaya wrap-up: Jae-Soo Kim legal at last on Cho Oyu, Poles on Makalu, Anna new line details, quake debrief from Shisha BC

Posted: Sep 26, 2011 12:19 pm EDT

(Angela Benavides) Fist summit news this season come from Cho Oyu. Artur Hajzer and his Polish mates are reportedly the only expedition currently on Makalu. Young-Seok Park (48) left Korea one week ago. The team is expected in Annapurna BC around October 8.

Cho Oyu: Summits

On Friday at 1:00 pm (Korean time) Jae-Soo Kim, Byoung-Woo Shon, Chang-Ho Kim, Sung-Ho Suh and Hong-Bin Lim topped-out Cho Oyu, after an 8 hours climb from C3 at 7,550 meters.

Because his previous Cho Oyu ascent was done without a climbing permit, Jae Soo-Kim only now became a "legal"14x8000er summiteer at last.

The men finally made a dash for it after a weather forecast announced the jet-stream would hit Cho Oyu from September 25th.

"CTMA (Chinese-Tibet Mountaineering Association) do not allow any climbing before all ropes are fixed, and thus almost 300 climbers have been waiting in BC for the route to be ready," Kolon Sport told ExWeb Korea correspondent Kyu Dam-Lee.

British Jagged-Globe launched a summit attempt yesterday but aborted in C1 due to changing weather. They are back in BC and waiting out a snow storm today.

Makalu: lonely Poles in stormy C2

Winter veteran Artur Hajzer is leading the "Unification expedition of Polish Mountaineering Association" on Makalu's French route.

They are the only ones on the mountain and use no O2, neither high altitude Sherpas.

The 7 member team launched a summit push last week, hoping to reach the top on Tuesday (tomorrow). The attempt was halted in C2 by weather. Reported the Poles earlier today: "Snowfall is considerable. Forecast for tomorrow is poor. There is half a meter of fresh snow in BC."
Correction note Sep28: Artur's team does not include Rafal and Robert as mentioned - according to info on the expedition website's English version whish. The update team composition is available on the site's Polish version here.

Annapurna: Details on Park's new route attempt

He climbed all 14, 8000ers, skied to both poles, carved a new route on Everest and plans a new route on Annapurna south face next. Korean Mr Park is no stranger to the hard-core exploration community.

Young-Seok Park (48) left Korea with Dong-Young Kim Monday one week ago. The team is expected in BC around October 8. Park's manager Ja-Joon Koo will also join the expedition.

The mountaineers hope to climb a new line between the British and Japanese routes in alpine style.

Shisha Pangma: Quake damages report

The 6.9 earthquake one week ago triggered a number of avalanches, some of them huge, around Shisha Pangma's BC, according to SummitClimb guide Max Kausch. "Many ropes were taken down with the avalanches and got completely buried," Max reported.

"On the left and right hand sides of the route, there was ice walls with many exposed hanging seracs. They also collapsed on the earthquake and started smaller avalanches. At about 6800m, the damage stopped and the route continued towards Camp 2."

"From up here we unfortunately don't have knowledge of the earthquake's epicenter nor how may people got affected (or killed) at the valleys below us. We hope not too many people were injured on this tragedy," Max wrote.

SummitClimb team members are done with their acclimatization and ready for a summit push.

In the news

A small Beechcraft hit a mountain near KTM airport and crashed Sunday killing 19 people. The plane was operated by Buddha Air and the two Americans who died were identified as Andrew Wade and Natalie Neilan, while the Japanese citizen was Toshinori Uejima, international media reported.

Links to fall 2011 Himalaya teams:


Park Young Seok


Artur Hajzer's Winter Himalayan Polish team


Carlos Soria


Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli
Ryan Waters' Mountain Professionals
Altitude Junkies
Alpenglow Expeditions
Rosa Fernandez
Mal Haskings' Speedfly8000

Shisha Pangma:

Cleo Weidlich

Cho Oyu:

Ferran Latorre
Nacho Orviz
Kari Kobler's
Camilo López & Anna Pfaff
Adventure consultants
Jagged Globe
Adventure Lovers
Elia Shaikali's Finding Life
Kheiry Sammakieh's Climb 4 Lebanon

#Mountaineering #topstory

A member in the Unification expedition of Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA) on Makalu last week.
courtesy United Polish Climbing Federation Makalu Expedition, SOURCE
File Image of Jae-Soo Kim on Gasherbrum I summit with a picture of Mi-Sun Go (perished on Nanga Parbat). Kim summited Cho Oyu Friday making him an official 14, 8000er summiteer.
courtesy Kim Jae Soo - Kolon Sports
Image clips of the fall 2011 Annapurna South Korean expedition, led by Young-Seok Park.
courtesy Young Seok-Park