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Pakistan wrap-up: details on Nanga Parbat new route attempt

Posted: Feb 02, 2012 07:46 pm EST

(Angela Benavides) Brilliant sunshine is treating all climbers to a nice winter break, unfortunately the current window came a bit early for summit pushes.

Yesterday Denis spoke of the new route he and Simone hope to do on Nanga Parbat. Messner, who once commenced it, hopes the two will finish it.

Nanga Parbat: Denis and Simone for a double-first

Although known as the Messner route, the South Tyrolean actually never completed the line that Simone and Denis have deviated to. Should they succeed, they would thus bag a double "first" (the winter ascent and a new route).

"Yes, the route is unfinished, although attempted by Messner," Simone confirmed over email to ExplorersWeb. Moro said that Messner hopes they'll make it, "we are in touch with Reinhold - we're actually great friends," Simone said.

The climbers spent the day trekking to Kutgully BC and back celebrating the one year anniversary of their G1 winter climb with Cory Richards.

As for the other team on the mountain, Simone reported the Polish have been debating strategy for a while in BC but might go up today to fix some rope to C1.


Normal in summer ain't necessarily so in winter, Denis said in yesterday's interview. The Polish veterans on G1 might agree, currently on a complicated access to the face in a maze of seracs and crevasses starting the normal route.

Artur Hajzer elaborated he wouldn't be surprised if the great weather triggered successful summit pushes but said his team will stick to their guns, with attempts not until late February, early March. Adam and two porters were about to leave for C2 today.

No other team reported summit plans yet; also on G1 the international expedition led by Gerfried Goschl reached 6,400 m on their new route attempt. "We've done in just 10 days, what last year took a month," mused Gerfried. Alex Txikon's home team said he and Carlos will supply C1 tomorrow and spend Friday night there if all goes to plan.


A radio silence on K2 is attributed to possible generator outage.

Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams

Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog
Matteo Zanga blog
Russian K2 winter expedition
Russian Climb
Polish GI winter team
Alex Txikon
Gerfried Göschl
Carlos Suarez blog
#Mountaineering #topstory

Polish Janusz in a maze of seracs on his way to GI's C1 earlier this week.
Image by Artur Hajzer courtesy Polish winter GI expedition 2012, SOURCE
"When it's cold, when it's stormy, when things need to be solved - I'm here to face it." Gerfried sans mask some days ago.
courtesy Gerfried Goschl, SOURCE
Carlos Suarez and Alex Txikon (back in image) working on GI south side.
Image by Carlos Suarez courtesy Alex Txikon, SOURCE
Simone and Denis (back) trekking to Kutgully BC earlier today.
Image by Matteo Zanga courtesy Winter Nanga Parbat expedition, SOURCE
Sections of Messner's uncomplete route, climbed (at the time of posting the story) by Simone Moro and Denis Urubko on Nanga parbat's NW side. Route in blue compiled on Google Earth map.
courtesy Denis Urubko, SOURCE