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2013 kickstart: Pakistan and Alaska winter climbs on their marks, Antarctica highlights

Posted: Jan 01, 2013 04:18 am EST

(Newsdesk) 2013 is kicking off with a bang. Nanga Parbat climbers have checked in from Pakistan. The Polish BP team is decided. Lonnie is in Talkeetna. Antarctica sounds a picturesque big wall climb; a Seven Summits world record; and a SP bike turned back north.


The Polish winter Broad Peak team has been selected.

The Hungarian winter Nanga Parbat expedition has arrived Pakistan. Climbing with David Klein and Zoltan Robert, Ian Overton reported on December 28:

"I slept deep and for a long time. Sher Baz, who is the manager of our agency, arrived in the morning with a friend, who has a shop selling mountaineering equipment. I was happy that we didn’t buy the ropes yesterday at the other shop, because today we received a little-used 100m long rope for a very good price. We must have looked funny at the hotel reception folding out the rope.

Zoli went to fetch Kriszta at the airport in the early morning. Kriszta will be accompanying us to the base camp. Ian went out to town to complete our pharmacy inventory and to take care of his visa extension. We finished our business with Sher Baz and Mr. Portik. Around noon Zoli rested up. We then headed to the Pakistan Mountaineering Club to participate at the mandatory briefing.

We sat for a half an hour in the basement of an old soviet-type stadium. I signed my name three times, we drank some tea, and then we said our goodbyes to the locals. We received the blessings of the authorities, and now we are only waiting for our luggage.

In the afternoon we went out with Zoli to the SuperMarket bazaar where we packed up our food supplies. We also went to the office of Turkish Airlines to make some inquiries about our barrels and bags. Sadly they still haven’t arrived, so we will call the airport tomorrow morning.

If all goes well we will receive our luggage tomorrow. We can then check out of our hotel at 2PM, and around 10PM we can head up north. It’s approximately a 14 hour long ride ahead of us to Chilas. At around 4 AM we will join a convoy with an armed member accompanying them, so that is the reason for the late departure."


Lonnie Dupre is in Talkeetna ready to make another attempt for a solo winter climb on Denali, during the frigid month of January to boot. The expedition awaits weather to fly up.


On the opposite side of the world, Lonnie's old adventure buddy Eric Larsen has cut his attempt to bike to the South Pole. The fatbike and rider are headed back to the coast.

There's a big wall climb ongoing at the continent.
In place for about a week now, the Ulvetanna Berghaus expedition climbers posted cool pics and last reported "hard physical work and diminishing supplies of clean underwear."

Meanwhile Lyudmila Korobeshko checked in to report a Seven Summit speed record. The team of 3 climbers topped out Vinson on December 11, thus bagging the "Seven Summits" in 293 days. "It's a speed record for Russia," Lyudmila wrote, adding that it also seems to be a female World Speed Record for the Seven Summits.

The project is a collaboration between the Mountaineering Federation of Russia and the 7 Summits Club.

Team leader Lyudmila Korobeshko is the only Russian woman to have climbed Seven Summits (both with Carstensz and Kosciuszko). At 65 years old, VP of the Mountaineering Federation of Russia Ivan Dusharin is dubbed “patriarch of Russian alpinism” and internationally recognized for K2 and other climbs. Cameraman Maksim Shakirov planted the 2014 Olympic Games banner atop Mount Everest and Mount Olympus. The project is financed and organized by MetaTrader 4 broker Alpari, one of the world’s three largest Forex brokers.

Find all ongoing expeditions in ExWeb's list of expeditions and their dispatches in the feeds on this main page.


White Christmas at Antarctica UPDATE

Himalaya winter games: list of expeditions is up

#Mountaineering #Polar #Stats #topstory

Ulvetanna, Antarctica.
Image by Berghaus Alastair/Lee courtesy Berghaus Alastair/Lee, SOURCE
Contemplating Nanga's Rupal face close up, "how did Tomaz Humar do it?" Joel pondered the other day.
Image by Tomaz Humar courtesy Tomaz Humar
Lonnie Dupre by Talkeetna roadhouse.
Image by www.oneworldendeavors.com courtesy www.oneworldendeavors.com, SOURCE
Former adventure buddy Eric Larsen on the other end of the world.
courtesy Cycle South - Eric Larsen HI - SP, SOURCE
File image of Mount Vinson.