7 Summits 8000ers Adventure Films Adventure Travel Africa Alaska Alaska Alpine style Ama Dablam Amazon Andes Annapurna Annapurna Antarctic Antarctic Archaeology Arctic Arctic Aviation Ballooning BASE jump and Paragliding Big Wall climbing Breaking News Broad Peak Buyers Guides Canoeing & Kayaking Caving Cho Oyu Climate change Climbing COVID-19 Denali Desert Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri Elbrus Endurance Environment Everest Expeditions Exploration mysteries Explorers First ascents Flying Gasherbrum Gear Geography High altitude skiing Himalaya Hindu Kush History Ice Climbing Indigenous cultures K2 Kangchenjunga Karakorum Kilimanjaro Lhotse Long-distance hiking Long-distance Trekking Makalu Manaslu Manaslu Marathon Medical Misc Sports Mountain Mountaineering Nanga Parbat Natural History Nepal Nuptse Ocean Rowing Oceanography Oceans Patagonia Photos Polar Exploration Polar Research Poles Reviews Rivers Rowing/canoeing Science Sherpa Siberia Skiing Solo South Pole Space Sponsored Content Survival Swimming Tropics Uncategorized Unclimbed Volcanos Weather Wildlife Winter 8000ers Winter Himalaya

Winter Pakistan: Hungarians/American to C2 on Nanga Parbat

Posted: Jan 26, 2013 02:50 am EST

(Newsdesk) An update arrived from the Hungarian/American Nanga Parbat expedition, via sat phone and the Italian computer. The men plan to ascend to C2 over the weekend, returning to BC January 29.

French female climber Eli Revol offers some insights in winter climbing. There are so many unknowns, she writes, in terms of acclimatization, the cold and the wind. How much gas will they need in each bivouac, how many layers of clothing, will the gear hold up.

Everything is affected by the cold, she writes. Making five liters of water in base camp takes 20 bowls of ice, so cooking is hard. The tent is a thawing freezer, soaking clothes and sleeping bags. Wet stuff is hard to dry, just to wash and change is a chore.

No updates on the Rupal side (power and tech trouble is another story.)

The Polish have reached Broad Peak BC and thus far seem to thrive.

Direct links to expedition reports:

Nanga Parbat Diamir face:

Nardi's reports

Eli's reports

Ian, David and Zoltan

Nanga Parbat Rupal face:

Joel Wischnewski

Tomek and Marek


Broad Peak:

Polish on FB

Polish winter news


Previous update


Winter permits, calendar climbs and more: 2004 ExWeb series revisit

Winter 8000ers: Statistics recall

Himalaya winter games: list of expeditions is up

Hunt For Funds And A Tuna Freezer: ExWeb Interview With Team Nanga Parbat


Down in BC everything is frozen, she says.
Image by Elisabeth Revol courtesy Elisabeth Revol, SOURCE
"To keep speed up we do most of the technical part of the ridge without safety."
Image by Elisabeth Revol courtesy Elisabeth Revol, SOURCE
The Polish in Broad Peak BC.
Image by Shaheen Baig courtesy Wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak, SOURCE