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Everest new routes update: groundwork done

Posted: Apr 25, 2013 08:11 pm EDT

(Tina Sjogren) Resting up before returning to Everest BC Simone Moro and Ueli Steck checked in with ExWeb from Namche yesterday.

Thus far the duo have acclimatized to camp 2, spending two nights, and approached the west shoulder. "I stopped at 6900 meters but Ueli, who was better acclimatized, went to 7500 meters," Simone told ExWeb in email.

As for the exact route, Ueli told ExplorersWeb that after they both summited Everest several times (Ueli in a fast climb without oxygen last year) it's time for a different approach.

Planning to start a second round of acclimatization after returning to base today. "We will go on the shoulder and spend a night," Simone Moro wrote, "and there decide which route we will follow."

Urubko/Bolotov

Moro's winter climbing partner Denis Urubko and Russian super climber Alexei Bolotov have their target clearly set.

Denis and Alex reached 7200 meters a few days back, even helping sherpas to fix ropes on the normal route they told RussianClimb. They will now rest in the valley before returning for final summit attempt.

Getting a close look of their virgin route during the acclimatization stage Denis said it looks very good. Considered by his peers perhaps the world's foremost mountaineer today, Urubko added: "Is it scary? Yes, it is! I hope we'll be fast."

Gleb Sokolov and Alexander Kirikov postponed their plans for lack of funding.

New routes on Everest are extremely rare. The last successful attempt was made by late Korean Mr Park. While all attention was focused on the normal route, in 2009 Mr Park summited Everest via a new line on the immense and technical SW Face.

Adding to the difficulty, Urubko/Bolotov plan to climb the route without any support and in alpine style.

Related:

Gleb Sokolov and Alexander Kirikov

Everest new routes galore: Moro and Steck in the game
#Mountaineering #topstory




Ueli Steck free-climbing the Lhotse wall during his first acclimatization round on Everest this spring.
Image by www.uelisteck.ch courtesy www.uelisteck.ch, SOURCE
Simone Moro brought his own heli to Nepal this year, setting up an all Italian rescue operation. Enrico Cereia is in charge of business in Khumbu till end of April. "He already landed in camp 2 on Everest," Simone told ExWeb.
Image by Simone Moro courtesy www.simonemoro.com, SOURCE
Urubko's/Bolotov's new route (red) marked by Denis on a picture shot by his climbing mate Simone Moro during Moro's fly by of the Nuptse ridge last spring. Climbers on the normal route (south side) will be able to watch the two pioneers from camp 2.
Image by Simone Moro and Denis Urubko courtesy Denis Urubko and Alexei Bolotov
Homeboy Denis Urubko (middle in yellow) helped father Alexander mount the cross on top of his church some years back. Their prayers will be his only support on Everest.
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