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Shishapangma Summits Update - updated

Posted: May 03, 2013 07:52 pm EDT

(By Nick Boudreau, contributor Raheel Adnan - updated May 04, 2013 04:15 pm EDT) The following is a list of reported Main summits of Shishapangma to date. No news yet of the progress and possible summits of US climber [Ed note May 7 correction: not German as reported before] Cleo Weidlich and Spaniard Rosa Fernandez. Updated May 04, 2013 04:15 pm EDT Roza reported that she had to withdraw from the mountain because of symptoms indicating pulmonary edema. On May 3 she started her descent and on May 4 she entered Nepal from Tibet.

1. Thomas Laemmle (Germany) – His original plan was to acclimatize to Camp 3 but decided to go on to summit. He skied down from just below summit.

2. Santiago Quintero (Ecuador)

3. Chhang Dawa Sherpa (Nepal) – He has become youngest person to climb all fourteen 8,000 meter peaks. He and his brother Mingma are only brothers to scale all of the 8000ers.

4. Mingma Thinduk Sherpa (Nepal)

5. Nima Dorchi Sherpa (Nepal)

6. Rupert Hauer, (Austria)

7. Alix von Melle (Germany)

8. Luis Stitzinger (Germany)

9. Tunç Findik (Turkey) – The first Turk to reach main summit.

10. Alex Gavan (Romania) – In spite of a harrowing climb he became the first Romanian to summit Shishapangma. He did so without supplemental oxygen. Catalin Ionscu told ExplorersWeb he reported that this was his most dangerous climb yet. This is his firth 8000m peak after Cho Oyu (2006), Gasherbrum I (2007), Makalu (2008), Manaslu (2011). His home team will send out an official press release and summit video after sorting out the climb details.

Thomas Laemmle sent over the following news to ExplorersWeb of him and the AMICAL team:

“Members of AMICAL and sherpas and members of the Nepalese agency 7-SUMMITS achieved the first summits this year of Shisha Pangma main summit via the Inaki route.

Amical summiters were Alix Melle, Luis Stitzinger, Rupert Hauer and myself, Thomas Laemmle.
Everyone started at the bottom of Camp 3 (7100m). Whereas I had to start at Camp 2 (6900m), 2h away from the base of C3.

On 29th I established our Camp 2 together with the sherpas and two members of the main AMICAL group. Sherpas and members went down to Camp1 for overnight. I stayed at Camp 2 and wanted to check out the different summit routes next morning. On 30th members and sherpas were supposed to climb up to Camp 2 again for overnight and finishing the acclimatization.

On 30th at 2.30 in the morning I started with skis via the corridor towards the base of C3. By 4.00 I began to climb the ice wall up to C3. Then I skied over to the big couloir of the Inaki route. Because it was early in the morning I decided to climb up the Inaki route to the summit. At 14:00 I reached the summit together with Alix and Luis. From below the summit I skied back to Camp 2, where I met my group at 16:00.

The next day we all together skied and walked down to ABC.

Now we are in ABC and waiting for a "weather window" which allows us to climb Shisha Pangma via the normal route. All members have been 6 nights in high camps and have slept at 6950m. The acclimatization is perfect!”

The German couple Alix and Luis wrote an update about their climb from April 28 to May 1st and the summit here.

Previous - Shishapangma Summits April 30, 2013

Previous - German couple eyes first Shisha summits, ski descent
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Thomas Laemmle on the main summit of Shishapangma. In the background the other two (lower) summits of Shisha Pangma which are normally climbed via the normal route.
courtesy Thomas Laemmle, SOURCE