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Kangchenjunga, Manaslu and Cho Oyu Summit Pushes

Posted: May 18, 2013 07:25 pm EDT

(by Raheel Adnan) Monsoon is approaching Himalayas and in a matter of few weeks, whole region will be closed for altitude climbing activities. Climbers had been working on respective mountains since April and are now making final attempts to reach the top. Summit pushes are in progress all around.


Iranian lady, Parvaneh Kazemi, reached an altitude of 8200m a week ago. But due to abrupt change in weather, she made the tough but rational decision to turn back. She says, “Perhaps we could reach the summit and maybe we could even return to Camp4 but the risk was very high.” She reached BC on 13th May under heavy snow. Parvaneh is going up again for yet another summit attempt.

But unlike Parvaneh’s first attempt when she was alone, all Kangchenjunga climbers are unified now. The group climbed directly from BC to C2, yesterday and ascended to C3 today. They are hoping to reach C4 tomorrow (19th) and summit on 20th.

Other climbers who are part of summit push:

1. Catalonians Oscar Cadiach (61) and Lluis Rafols. They went to green zone before summit attempt.

2. Italian Expedition of Annalisa Fioretti Mario Vielmo, Silvano Forgiarini and Paul Paganino. Yesterday expedition leader Annalisa messaged, “C2: snow fall in these days is really a lot ... it was a great grind, even the serac has changed ... and it is very steep ... Anyway everything ok!”.

3. Hungarian/Slovak Team of Zsolt Eross, Peter Kiss and Jaroslav Dutka: It would be 10th eight-thousander for Zolt.

4. But the center of attention at Kangchenjunga BC has been the veteran Spaniard climber Carlos Soria (74). If successful, he would become the oldest person to summit Kanchenjunga. Soria already holds the honor of being oldest person to climb K2 (at age 65), Broad Peak (68 years), Makalu (69 years), Gasherbrum I (70 years) and Manaslu (71 years). He has summited 10 eight-thousanders so far and is on a mission to complete 14x8000ers project. He has yet to climb Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Shishapangma.

5. A group of Chinese and Koreans is also pushing for summit.


A week ago Raul Corominas and PeterHerms’ summit push plan was thwarted, when an unexpected snow storm caught them at 7000m. Now, they are speeding up the mountain again to available the narrow summit window predicted around 19th-21st May. Today they reached C1 and are aiming to climb directly to C3, tomorrow. Summit push is expected on 20th May, depending upon weather conditions.

Cho Oyu

It has been a difficult season on Cho Oyu. Four teams were attempting the peak this spring but three of them have already pulled out, while the fourth team is also left with half of its member. They have left BC today with the aim of reaching summit on 21st. High winds and lack of snow haven’t allowed anyone to climb above C3 this season, yet.

Summit pushes are also underway on Makalu and Dhaulagiri. Details here.

Based in Lahore, Pakistan telecom engineer and mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is contributing reporter for ExplorersWeb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at AltitudePakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.
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A meeting was held at between different expeditions at Kangchenjunga BC to coordinate the summit climb.
Strong winds thwarted the first summit push of Parvaneh Kazemi at 8200m.
Conditions on Manaslu has been tough, this year. A snow-storm on 11th May, forced Catalonians to turn back from 7000m.