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Broad Peak: The Summit-Bid Updates | Update-3

Posted: Jul 23, 2014 04:22 pm EDT

(By Raheel Adnan; Note: This post will be updated, as information arrives from the mountain)


The first group of Broad Peak climbers, who left BC on Monday, is expected to have left for the summit, this morning. They reached C2 on 21st and climbed to C3 on 22nd. Although some climbers will be setting up an additional camp (C4) at around 7400m today, others were likely to launch the summit bid directly from C3.




The climbers expected to leave for Broad Peak’s main summit this morning include Romanian Alex Gavan and Bulgarian Boyan Petrov, whereas group A of Polish climbers (Jarosław Gawrysiak, Kacper Tekieli, Grzegorz Bielejec and Krzysztof Stasiak) is supposed to attempt Broad Peak Middle. Both teams will be sharing the route till around 7800m.

Earlier this season, multiple individual summit pushes have been thwarted by excessive snow between 7400m and 7700m. Now, as multiple teams are going for summit, it's expected that they will join hands in opening the route.

Polish BPM team will climb left from the Pass to sub-peak Broad Peak Middle (8016m), which is considered significantly more challenging than main summit itself. The climbers to main summit will proceed right from the Pass. After reaching a sub-peak known as Foresummit, they will be required to continue around 800m further to Main/True summit.


As of now, it can’t be confirmed if two other Bulgarians, Hungarian duo, Pakistani climbers and Summit Climb team reached C3 as per plan and are going for summit, today.

Lastly, a message from Mexican couple, Badía Bonilla and Mauricio López reads, “In camp3, after tomorrow to summit”. They intended to set up C4, before summit push.



The July 24th Team

A major wave of summit attempts is expected on July 24th. It’s reported that all members of Oscar Cadiach’s team, except Jordi Cardona and Xavier Vilardell, reached C2 yesterday. They will ascend to C3 today, and launch summit push at night.

Spanish team reported that the wind storm of last week swept away their two tents along with supplies and gear; something which is not uncommon on Broad Peak. However, alternate resources have been employed and summit push shall commence as per plan.


Meanwhile, there hasn’t been any communication from Spanish-International team lately. However, before leaving BC, American climber Nick Rice wrote on his blog, “Our plan is to leave at 5am tomorrow (July 21st) for Camp II (6400m/21,000ft), continue on to Camp III (7040m/23,100ft) on July 22nd, and either spend July 23rd in Camp III resting or establish a Camp IV (~7400m/24,300ft) to shorten our summit day. If all goes well, our summit day will be July 24th.



Update 01 (23-July-2014 / 1430hrs Pakistan Time)

“There are two men progressing, but not too fast, one is 30 meters from the summit of Broad Peak. Since an hour we are following men who are coming towards the summit.”

First update of the day about Broad Peak Summit Push arrived from K2 BC. Agostino Da Polenza, the Italian expedition leader, told Montagna.tv from K2 Base Camp at around 10:00AM local time. Identification of the climbers is not possible at this moment.


Moreover, we have heard that Polish climbers were also near the summit of Broad Peak Middle.



Update 02 (23-July-2014 / 1700hrs Pakistan Time)


Multiple SUMMITs are being reported from Broad Peak. Spanish climbers at C3 say that Polish team made it to the summit (BPM??) and are descending to C3, now.


Also, as per communication from Akbar Syed of Lela Peak Expeditions, who is currently at Base Camp, several climbers reached the main summit of Broad Peak, today. We shall update precise details as further news arrive from the region.



Update 03 (24-July-2014 / 0100hrs Pakistan Time)

Eventually, we have started receiving first-hand reports from summit parties. Romanian Alex Gavan messaged a while ago, “Happiest man in the world: just climbed Broad Peak/8047m in Pakistan' Karakoram, no supplementary oxygen used, with a bunch of great guys.

But the Polish Broad Peak Middle team couldn’t make it to the top. As per email from expedition leader, Jerzy Natkański, three members of the group A turned back around 100m short of summit, due to exhaustion and fatigue. They reached C3 at around 09PM local time.

Names of other summiteers will be updated, as we receive further details.


Summit Push 2

Second big wave of summit pushes is currently underway on Broad Peak as several climbers leave for the summit. Teams confirmed to have left for the top include Polish Team's group B (Piotr Tomala, Agnieszka Bielecka, Marek Chmielarski) who went up from C3 at 10PM, Oscar Cadiach's team at 09PM and Mexican couple, Badía Bonilla and Mauricio López, who was in C4 (at around 7400m). Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki, also wrote that he will be leaving for the summit at around mid-night.



Based in Lahore, Pakistan, telecom engineer and mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.



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Broad Peak Foresummit on right, Main/True summit in background
courtesy Polish Winter Himalaism, SOURCE
Route to Broad Peak main summit with camps marked as triangles.
courtesy Polish Winter Himalaism, SOURCE
The Pass; main summit is on right, BPM is on left.
courtesy Polish Winter Himalaism, SOURCE