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Young gun to attempt all Snow Leopard Peaks

Posted: May 23, 2015 10:02 am EDT


(Correne Coetzer) This summer, 19 year old alpinist from Finland, Juho Knuuttila, will be off to Central Asia to attempt to climb all five Snow Leopard Peaks in one season. Expedition dates are July 1st to September 1st, 2015. 


"I'll climb on my own, without guides or friends. And after the first peak (Pik Lenin) I'll be climbing in alpine style,” Juho told Explorersweb.


"I would be the youngest in the World and a first Finn to climb all five peaks. I'll also attempt fastest summit to summit time, which is at the moment 39 days, set by Denis Urubko in 1999."


Heights of the Peaks and Base Camps


Pik Lenin (7134m), Kyrgyzstan,  BC (3600m) and ABC known also as a Camp 1 (4400m). Approach to BC with a 4WD.


Pik Korzhenevskaya (7105m), Tajikistan, BC (4400m). Approach to BC with a helicopter.


Pik Kommunizma (7495m), Tajikistan, BC (4400). Same BC with Korzhenevskaya.


Khan Tengri (6995m), Kyrgyzstan, BC (4100m). Approach to BC with a helicopter.


Pik Pobeda (7439m), Kyrgyzstan, BC (4100m). Same BC with Khan Tengri.


Strategy and challenges


Exweb wanted to know what his strategy will be to beat this 16 year old record. “Climbing light and fast,” said Juho. "I'll get well acclimatised on Pik Lenin, which allows me to climb rest of the peaks really fast." 


"Weather and conditions are playing a huge part. I need bunch of luck due to very tight schedule. And also due to this year's helicopter timetables, the truth is that it will be very hard to beat Denis’ record."


"The main challenge is going to be the weather and amount of snow. All of the peaks are technically easy. Last year we had extremely stable weather in Pamirs and I hope it's going to be the same, but Tien Shan (Pobeda and Tengri) is a totally different game. Fierce storms, deep snow and cold weather can be expected."


Verification and support


How would verify his climbs as he will be climbing on his own, ExWeb wanted to know.


"Alpinism is based on trust,” said Juho. "Of course I'll record my climbs as detailed as I can, with pictures, video etc. I'll also update my social media channels “live”. Yes, I climb alone, but I'm expecting to meet other climbers also on the mountains as I'll use normal routes."


"Ak-Sai Travel arranges my logistics. It's a common norm to fly to Base Camps with a helicopter. I have Base Camp support on Lenin, Pobeda and Tengri, but in Tajikistan I cook my own food also in BC.


As for climbing permits, Juho told Explorersweb there is a small permit fee for each mountain. "Very small compared to Nepal for example.”


The Fin has done almost all his preparation, only the final packing to do, he said.


His Social Media Sites


Twitter: https://twitter.com/JuhoKnuuttila

Facebook: https://fi-fi.facebook.com/juho.climbing

Instagram: https://instagram.com/juhoknuuttila/

Expedition website is coming soon.





Khan Tengri North Face Direct Debrief


Da scoop: Kazakhs summit winter Khan Tengri


Heads up: Romanians for Khan Tengri Peak and other ex-Soviet Union peaks


Gatta's French guide to Khan Tengri


Peak Pobeda: three climbers die in a seven-day long storm


Report from Peak Lenin climbers: Victims of 1990 avalanche surfacing in melting glacier


Snow Leopard: how to become a hero in the former USSR in only five peaks



















"Alpinism is based on trust," said Juho. (click to expand)
courtesy Juho Knuuttila (Facebook), SOURCE
Juho's strategy on the Snow Leopard Peaks: climbing light and fast.
courtesy Juho Knuuttila (Facebook), SOURCE
"Weather and conditions are playing a huge part. I need bunch of luck due to very tight schedule."
courtesy Juho Knuuttila (Facebook), SOURCE