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Iranian Broad Peak New Route: Complications on Descent

Posted: Jul 19, 2013 06:42 am EDT

(By Raheel Adnan) Setting out from third bivouac at 8000m, three Iranian climbers, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarahi, reached the summit of Broad Peak on Tuesday morning (July 16th), but they haven't been able to return to C3 yet. As per last communication, they were at 7800m, needing food and water.

Iranian Route

In 2009, Iranian climbers attempted to conquer Broad Peak via a new route from Southwest Face. The route consists of two sections, a) Climbing Southwest face to C3 of standard route. b) From C3, going towards the right, directly to the main summit. (See illustrations by Iranian Team in images). The 2009 attempt was aborted at C3 (6800m) due to health issues. Since then, Iranians have made multiple attempts to climb the route.


A five-climbers team attempted the new route this year. After acclimatization and working the route, the summit climb started last week. They reached C3 without any difficult situation. On Saturday, July 13th, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarahi, left C3 for the summit. The conditions were tough. They managed to reach an altitude of 7350m and made the first bivouac there. Next day, the trio negotiated rocky terrain above Bivouac-1 but gained only 100 meters altitude. At 7450m, they made the second bivouac. By the end of third day (July 15th), they were just below the summit at 8000m. There they bivouacked for a third night.


On July 16th, all three climbers reached the summit in early hours of the day. As per plan, they were supposed to descend via the normal route and reach C3 by the evening. Other members of the team, Ramin Shojaei and Afshin Saadi, were waiting for them in the camp.

The descent proved to be more complicated than expected. They couldn't come down via the standard route and had to bivouac two nights above C3. On Wednesday night the climbers were at around 7700m and were supposed to climb 100m to reach the normal route, which should lead them to C3.

July 18th

On July 18th, at 07:00AM local time, the climbers contacted BC and said that they are in need to food and water.  It appears that other climbers in C3 were unable to go up due to health issues. Ramin Shojaei descended to C2 in the afternoon. Base Camp team arranged high altitude porters, who climbed to C3, reaching there in late hours.

Aidin Bozorgi called again at 19:55hrs Persian time (20:25hrs local time). He was near the Broad Peak pass at 7800m. Aidin said that their tent has been torn off, one of the climbers isn't in a good condition and they are in need of food and water. The Base Camp team assured him that help is on the way, and will reach them tomorrow (July 19th). Aidin was asked to share GPS coordinates to facilitate rescue teams in locating them.


July 19th


As per Arash Mountaineers Club, efforts to rescue the stranded climbers are underway. Further details are not available at this moment.


Based in Lahore, Pakistan, telecom engineer and mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for ExplorersWeb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at AltitudePakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.






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Traversing above C3; Photo from previous Iranian attempt.
Iranian route from BC to C3 on Broad Peak (Click to view full image).
Iranian route from C3 to Summit on Broad Peak (Green line on the left is Normal route, whereas green line on right depicts Denis Urubko & Serguey Samoilov 2005 line of ascent).
Upper portions of standard route on Broad Peak.
Iranian Team at airport before departure to Islamabad.