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Italians at Manaslu BC, Nanga Parbat Action Freezes

Posted: Feb 18, 2015 10:31 am EST

(By Raheel Adnan) Bad weather halts climbing activities on Nanga Parbat. Teams are waiting for improvement in conditions to restart the ascent. At Manaslu BC, Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro were welcomed by 2 meters of accumulated snow. Finally, more climbers are arriving in Nepal for early-Spring expeditions.

Italians at Manaslu BC

Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger flew to Manaslu Base Camp yesterday, where whole landscape is covered by deep snow. “And there is really two meters of snow,” the team said; only to confirm the conditions previously reported by their porters.


The team had hoped that porters would facilitate transportation of equipment from Samagaon (the last inhibited village) to Manaslu BC. But excessive snow didn't let the porters go up. Hence, helicopters had to be used for shuttling the complete equipment.

Simone Moro was planning to take a heli-tour around the mountain to observe the conditions. However, after additional trips to Samagaon, there wasn’t enough fuel for a reconnaissance flight.

It is Tamara Lunger's first expedition to Himalayas in winter. She expressed her feelings on Facebook, “[w]hen we arrived and I saw the beauty of this mountain, I felt not that "in love" like on K2, but I felt that this soul is also really friendly to us. I think we had constant -20 degrees today, no clouds on the mountain and I wore only a long-sleeve t-shirt and a cap... nobody will believe it! I gave a strong hug to Simone and said: "Simo, I think we will have a real chance!” That’s all for now, after this hard shoveling day I want to enjoy the beauty around me.”

Here is a video of white-out conditions at Manaslu BC.


Nanga Parbat Action Freezes

Nanga Parbat climbers are fairly pleased with the progress so far and now await a good weather window for summit attempt. “Arguably much of the work (is done) and most technical (sections) are ready; not surprisingly, it is the highest point ever reached on Kinshofer route in the winter Nanga, which gives us great satisfaction,” Alex Txikon wrote on his blog. Mountain-forecast predicts several days of excessive snow and fierce winds on the mountain.


Three Nanga Parbat teams have joined hands to climb Kinshofer route, this season. The climbers include Alex Txikon and his Pakistani partners (Ali Sadpara, Muhammad Khan), Daniele Nardi and Iranian Trio (Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmood Hashemi).

Spring Season: Early Arrivals

There is still more than a month of winter left. Spring, the busiest mountaineering season in Himalayas, usually starts at the end of March. However, Annapurna climbers will be arriving at BC much earlier, this year. They would want to benefit from stable conditions before excessive snow gets dumped in April.

76 year old Spanish climber Carlos Soria left for Nepal on Feb 14th. He will be acclimatizing in Khumbu Valley for a couple of weeks before reaching Annapurna BC at the start of March. Carlos is also ambitious to attempt Dhaulagiri later in the season. The Spaniard has so far climbed 11 eight-thousanders; Kangchenjunga being the last one in May 2014. Apart from Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, another 8000er Shishapangma is missing from his 14x8000ers list.

Finnish Samuli Mansikka leaves for Nepal on Feb 27th. He will be joining the expedition coordinated by Mingma G. Sherpa’s team. Samuli climbed Kangchenjunga and K2 last year. If successful, Annapurna will be his 10th eight-thousander.


Based in Pakistan, mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.



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Illustration by Alex Txikon showing progress on the mountain so far
Tamara and Simone inside their tent at BC
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger setting up Base Camp. (Click to enlarge)
Carlos Soria (76) will be attempting Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in Spring season. He left for Nepal on Feb 14th.