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Italians for unclimbed Northwest pillar on Talung

Posted: Apr 28, 2014 07:08 pm EDT


(By Markian Hawryluk) A trio of Italian guides are planning what could prove to be one of the more ambitious Himalayan climbs of the year. Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Panzeri and Giampaolo Corona have arrived at the foot of the 7,349 meter Talung, on the border between India and Nepal, with the intent of putting up a new route on the peak’s northwest pillar.
Panzeri spotted the line while climbing Kanchenjunga in 2011, and photographed the face with hopes of returning to the region. “I had it always in front of me, I could not not notice it,” he told Montagna in February. “The line is really beautiful.”
The route starts with 400 meters of vertical rock and then progresses to mixed climbing on rock and ice.
“It’s definitely a way of high-technical difficulty,” Bernasconi told Montagna. “We’ll see if it will be pure alpine style of if we have to place some rope.”
The team left Italy on March 31, reaching base camp at 5,200 feet on April 19.
Talung was first climbed by Austrian Franz Lidner in 1964 via the southwest ridge. It has seen only two additional summits, by Slovenian Marko Prezejl from the west in 1991 and by Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hruby in alpine style in 2013. The Czech climb, up the 2,000 meter north face, is on the  Super Big List, from which the 2014 Piolet D’Or will be chosen.

The three have extensive high-altitude experience. Corona, 41, has climbed six 8,000 meter peaks, all without supplemental oxygen. Bernasconi, 43, has climbed three without oxygen, including the first ascent of Gasherbrum II from the North. Panzeri, 50, has climbed all 14 8,000 meter peaks, without supplemental oxygen.



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#everest #himalaya #mountaineering #tibet #china #annapurna #dhaulagiri #avalanche #kanchenjunga #makalu# chooyu #talung


Mario Panzeri has climbed all 8,000 meter peaks without supplemental oxygen.
File image of Daniele Bernasconi (in blue), Mario Panzeri (in green) and Herve Barmasse (in yellow) headed for GI north side in previous years.
courtesy Montagna.org, SOURCE