(By Karrar Haidri) Updated Aug 8, 2013 05:10 EDT: Japanese Kazuya Hiraide & Ms. Kei Taniguchi have summited Diran Peak, 7257m
Two-members strong Japanese expedition comprising, Mr Hiraide Kazuya and Ms Taniguchi Kei, (Piolets d’Or winners) arrived in Islamabad to attempt to climb the 7,611 meter high Shispare Peak.
On June 22 the team was briefed at the Alpine Club of Pakistan by its President, Manzoor Hussain, who was the Pakistani leader of the Joint Pak Japanese Expedition that made the first ascent of the 7,284 meter high Passu peak in 1978. Passu peak is connected with Shispare Peak through a long ridge.
The President of the ACP shared his experience of climbing the ridge and studying the Hassanabad glacier and the Shispare Peak from near the Passu summit. Mr Hirade Kazuy, who is a good ice climber, has earlier experience of climbing Laila and Golden peaks in Karakoram. Discussing his climbing details, he informed that his team will be attempting the 7,273 meter high Diran Peak to reach up as high as possible for acclimatization purposes only, whereas their actual target is the 7,611 meter high Shispare Peak, which he already attempted in 2007 via the Hassanabad glacier from South side.
The Base Camp is low at 3,900 meters. The Expedition intends climbing an about 1700 meter near vertical ice wall on the Southern side to reach the main ridge leading to the Shispare summit. It was agreed by the leader that this side is difficult and prone to avalanches but with experience of his last attempt he felt confident about the climb. It may be mentioned that Shispare Peak was first climbed by a Polish Expedition in 1975.
Hirade Kazuy was born in Nagano in 1979, and nowadays he is one of the best climbers of Japan. In 2009 he won the Golden Ice Axe.
2001 China Kula Kangri（7381m) first accent
2001 China Cho Oyu（8201m）
2003 Pakistan Khunyang Chhish（7852m) new route
2004 Pakistan Golden Peak (7027m) new route
2004 Pakistan Laila Peak(6200m) new route
2005 China Mustagh Ata（7564m) second accent
2005 India Shivling(6543m) new route
2007 Pakistan Shispare(7611m) new route
2008 Pakistan GII (8035m)
2008 Pakistan Broad Peak (8045m)
2008 India KAMET (7756m) new route
2009 Pakistan GI (8068m)
2009 Chaina GauriShankar (7134m) new route
2010 Nepal Amadablam (6818m) new route
#K2 #Everest #Himalaya #Mountaineering #HiradeKazuy
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