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K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and Gasherbrums Teams Arrive in Pakistan

Posted: Jun 08, 2013 07:10 pm EDT

(By Raheel Adnan) From Islamabad the Base Camps of remote Karakoram and Himalayan peaks can be reached either by Skardu and Gilgit bound flights, or by a lengthy bus ride on the renowned Karakoram Highway. Currently the majority of teams have either started the aforementioned journey or are ready to go. The Diamir side of Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrums in Karakoram are popular destinations this season.




Headed by Kitamura Seiichi, the eight-member Japanese team flew to Islamabad on June 4th. After fulfilling the routine procedures in Pakistani capital, they were scheduled to depart for Skardu today. The team is hoping to reach BC by June 23rd and after acclimatization, launch the summit bid in first week of August. But obviously, this is highly dependent upon proceedings of these two months and the weather conditions. Four HAPs (high altitude porters) from Pakistan will also join the Japanese expedition.

An International team of Kiwi, Australian, Nepalese and Greek climbers will presumably climb Broad Peak before K2, whereas members of a third group are yet to reach Pakistan. Basque climber Alex Txikon, who summited his 10th eight-thousander this spring, will be part of the K2 team. Another Lhotse summiteer, Ferran Latorre from Catalonia, will also be in Karakoram this summer. He will attempt K2 or one of the Gasherbrums; maybe both. Their Mexican teammate, Benjamin Salazar, will fly to Pakistan by middle of June. Whereas two members of this expedition, Ernestas Marksaitis and Gabriel Filippi, are already in Pakistan as part of an International Nanga Parbat Expedition. It’s not known whether they would be able to join K2 team, as well.


Nanga Parbat


Nanga Parbat’s Diamir BC will be a busy area this season. Apparently around 50 climbers will be trying to scale Nanga Parbat from Diamir side via Kinshofer route. Three Pakistanis, Karim, Naseer and Sher, have already established Camp 1 and are now trying to reach C2. The Pakistani climbers are working as an independent team.

An International Expedition, led by Polish Aleksandra Dzik, left Islamabad on June 4th and is currently trekking to Diamir BC. They should be reaching there tomorrow. The team consists of climbers from eight countries.

Ukrainian International Expedition led by Igor Sviergun flew to Islamabad on June 6th. The expedition of Kharkov mountaineering club also includes two members from Georgia and two from Slovakia.

Three members of a Polish team, Boguslaw Magrel, Wlodek Kierus and Adam Stadnik, arrived in Islamabad yesterday. They too will be moving to Diamir BC to climb via the standard route.

Turkish Tunc Findik is also getting ready for Nanga Parbat and has a plan to reach Islamabad today (June 8th). As of now, it’s not confirmed whether his other partners would also be climbing Nanga Parbat or if there is a change in plans.

This spring, Romanians Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean made the first ascent of Ghandarbha Chuli (6,248m), a peak in the Annapurna Sanctuary. Being in the proximity of famous sacred mountain, Macchapuchhare (6,993m), locals didn’t welcome the idea of the Ghandarbha Chuli climb but allowed them to proceed nonetheless. They reached the summit on May 6th. Now the two Romanians will be attempting Nanga Parbat. They will be joined by Felicia Enache and Lukin Evgeni. Route details and climbing schedule of the four are not known yet.

Another Romanian team will be trying to scale Nanga Parbat from Rupal side. The five-member team reached Islamabad on May 6th and is travelling to Chilas today. They are apparently the only team on the Rupal side and will be climbing via Schell’s route.

Broad Peak


Led by Robert Hochreiter, the expedition, with members from Austria, Germany, Switzerland, and The Netherlands, is currently trekking to Broad Peak BC. As per last communication, they were in Askole on June 6th.

An Austrian Broad Peak team arrived in Islamabad on June 2nd and reached Skardu on the 5th after a tiring 32-hour road trip. Their plan was to start the seven days trek to BC, yesterday.



Polish Artur Hajzer and Marcin Kaczkan were scheduled to fly to Pakistan today. Their target is to climb GI and GII via standard routes, with minimum resources. As a secondary objective, they will also evaluate the possibility of a summit-to-summit ‘full traverse’ of GI and GII. Since Reinhold Messner’s double-header, the feat has been repeated at several occasions but a ‘full traverse’ via Gasherbrum Col (6400m) is yet to be done. While the government funding of the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering project has been temporarily suspended due to the ongoing investigations on the Winter Broad Peak tragedy, the climb is supported by expedition sponsors and funds of the Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA).

Carlos Garranzo climbed Everest in 2006 and will try to scale GII, this season. A firefighter by profession, the Spanish climber wil be climbing ‘alone’, albeit there will be more than 70 climbers in the region during this period. Garranzo flew to Pakistan yesterday and is hoping to reach BC by June 23rd.

If everything goes as per schedule, Mexican couple Badia and Mauricio Bonilla will be in Islamabad by now. They started the journey on June 6th. Both Badia and Mauricio have climbed 6 eight-thousanders together and turned back from Shishapangma Central in Autumn 2002.

The six-member Taiwanese team will fly to Islamabad on June 17th, hoping to become the first Taiwanese group to scale GII, while the Belgian Expedition will start after the third week of June.


Based in Lahore, Pakistan telecom engineer and mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is contributing reporter for ExplorersWeb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at AltitudePakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.




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International Nanga Parbat Team in Islamabad. They will be attempting Kinshofer route on Diamir side.
courtesy Nina Adanin, SOURCE
More than 70 climbers will be climbing GI and GII this season.
courtesy Shimshal Mountaineering School, SOURCE
Alex Txikon and Artur Hajzer in the military camp near Concordia during winter GI expedition. Artur is attempting GI & GII this summer, while Alex will be on K2
courtesy Alex Txikon, SOURCE
Landslide on KKH, but the road was cleared in two hours. Austrian Broad Peak team reached Skardu on June 5th, after a tiring 32 hour road trip via KKH.
Polish Nanga Experience Team in Islamabad
K2 Southside as seen from Concordia.
courtesy Alex Txikon, SOURCE