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Nanga Parbat: A Mountain to be Climbed by First Week of February

Posted: Jan 30, 2015 12:39 pm EST

(By Raheel Adnan) “The mountain needs to be summited before the first week of February or else the storms just get nasty,” Ian Overton, American climber who attempted Nanga Parbat in winter 2012/13, told Explorersweb in a recent interview. This statement is strongly supported by weather pattern and statistics of winter attempts on Nanga Parbat.

A) Historically, almost all winter Nanga Parbat expeditions reached BC during the month of December.

B) Highest point of 85% winter expeditions was reached before February 10th. David Gottler and Tomek Mackiewicz’s 2013/14 attempt, when they reached 7200m on March 1st, is the only exception.

C) Similarly, all winter teams, except last year’s two Schell route expeditions, abandoned Base Camp before the start of March.


Polish climber Tomek Mackiewiz strongly emphasized on early arrival and quick summit attempt, this year. He arrived in Pakistan before the mid of November. After pre-expedition acclimatization in Rupal valley and quick trip to 6000m on Diamir side, Tomek (along with Elisabeth) managed to climb till 7800m in a good weather window around second/third week of January. However, snow and wind in past ten days haven’t let any team to resume the climb. 


Arrivals at BC


Contrary to aforementioned statistics, two Nanga Parbat teams have just reached the mountain this week. Iranians’ arrival was delayed due to visa issues. Spaniard Alex Txikon has to arrange Nanga Parbat expedition on quick basis after Chinese authorities cancelled his team’s K2 permit. At BC, the climbers were welcomed by snowstorm and bad weather. They are awaiting improvement in weather to start working on Kinshofer route.


Going Up

On January 28th, Russian team messaged from Rupal BC, “We begin to climb up”. A day earlier, the team reopened route from BC to ABC after snowstorm covered the tracks. Previously, they had made a deposit at around 7150m on Schell route.

It’s not known whether Russian team wants to make a summit attempt or will be returning to BC. Mountain-Forecastpredicts bad weather for a week, though.

Daniele Nardi

Recent snowstorm dumped lot of snow at Diamir BC and the Italian climber is still waiting for avalanches to ease up, before resuming his climb on Mummery Rib. Yesterday, he wrote, “we beat the track towards Camp1, the sun comes out shyly as we try to figure out how much snow dumped on the mountain. We wait patiently while we make 4 laughter.



Based in Pakistan, mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.



Report: 2014 Mountaineering Expeditions in Pakistan


Waiting: The Usual Winter Nanga Parbat Business


Nanga Parbat: Elisabeth Revol's Account of Summit Push


Nanga Parbat: Summit Push Details and Update on Other Teams


Nanga Parbat: End of Tomek Mackiewicz’ Fifth Winter Attempt


Nanga Parbat: Tomek & Elisabeth are Back in BC and the New Entrants


Winter Nanga Parbat | Tomek and Elisabeth at 7000m, Going Up Slowly


Nanga Parbat current, interview with Ian Overton


Living Out Loud: An Artist on Nanga Parbat


Nanga Parbat Winter Recall


Dupre Summits Winter Denali


Nanga Parbat: Acclimatization and Progressing towards C2


Nanga Parbat Basecamps Established, Climbing Begins


Nanga Parbat Teams in Pakistan, K2 Climbers Hopeful


Russian team off to Nanga Parbat, route decided 


Winter 2015: Tomek Mackiewicz Begins Acclimatization


History of Winter Climbing Nanga Parbat


Winter 2014/15: Preparations Underway for Exciting Ventures




Recent snowstorm dumped lot of snow at Diamir BC. Daniele Nardi is still waiting for avalanches to ease up.
courtesy Daniele Nardi, SOURCE
Nanga Parbat Diamir Face
courtesy Daniele Nardi, SOURCE
Snow at Diamir BC after recent storm. Daniele Nardi reports that their kitchen tent fell down under the weight of snow.
courtesy Daniele Nardi, SOURCE