Nanga Parbat: Acclimatization and Progressing towards C2

Posted: Jan 06, 2015 12:12 pm EST

(By Raheel Adnan) Winter climbers, except the Iranians, have reached Nanga Parbat and are going forward with acclimatization and route establishment. This initial phase of expeditions is going to play a major role in teams’ readiness for summit-bid when weather windows arrive.

Rupal Side

Having established C1 (5250m) on Schell route in first rotation, the Russians have progressed further to 5900m. The team messaged from BC on Jan 4th, "we prepared the route from C1 till 5900. In summer the local guides had removed all ropes stayed on the route after the Polish and Italian expeditions. We found only one hook. Now resting in BC."

The Russian climbers tried to go up again, today, but were forced to turn back due to high avalanche danger.


Diamir Side

Tomek and Elisabeth

After setting up Base Camp and route reconnaissance, Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol have started working on Messner-Hanspeter 2000 line. On January 1st, Tomek and Elisabeth reached C1 at around 3PM local time. “We are in C1. The weather is good. Tomorrow we set off to C2. This is our second visit here. The first time we have made it to halfway to the C2 ", Tomek told his home team from C1.

It appears that they returned to BC after the climb and are set to go up again. As per Daniele's home team, Tomek and Elisabeth will try to reach 6000m in next three days.

Daniele Nardi

The Italian climber and support team have also reached the mountain. They arrived at Base Camp on January 4th. Daniele Nardi’s plan is to start acclimatization immediately. As per team, initially they will conduct two "walks" above BC.

During previous winter expeditions, Daniele acclimatized on Ganalo Peak (6608m) (without reaching the summit on both occasions). It appears that this year too, he will be going up this subsidiary peak for acclimatization, before alpine style attempt on Mummery Rib.

Based in Pakistan, mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.

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