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Summer 2013: Summit Pushes Update (Updated)

Posted: Jul 16, 2013 02:30 pm EDT

(By Raheel Adnan, Updated Jul. 17 04:43am) More summits have been reported on Broad Peak, while attempts to reach GII and Nanga Parbat tops are still underway.


(Update Jul. 17 04:43am) Word arrived at ExplorersWeb that Mariano Galván from Argentina has summited GII on his own on July 14.  His next plan is to join the Lela team on GI.


Summits on Broad Peak


As per initial reports, Martin (Marty) Schmidt and his son Denali Schmidt of International K2/Broad Peak Team have made it to the summit of Broad Peak. Other members of the team couldn’t make it to the top due to adverse conditions. The team is now heading towards K2 Base Camp, as the second part of the expedition. They will be climbing K2 via Southeast Ridge (Abruzzi Spur).


FTA Expedition’s Scott Stuart suffered a minor fall just above C3 and decided to cancel the summit bid. Ron Hoglin continued the ascent with three High Altitude Porters. It’s reported that Ron turned back from Foresummit, while it’s not known whether HAPs managed to reach the summit or not.


Iranian Team attempting a new route (see the images for detail) to the summit, reported yesterday that three climbers, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarahi, bivouacked at an altitude of 8000m on Monday night (15th) and were expecting to continue to the summit today. It appears that all climbers were in good health and positive about continuing to the top. Dispatches from the team are published at Kooh News.


Nanga Parbat


The Romanian Team was the only team left on the mountain after Diamir BC massacre. They are climbing from Rupal side via Schell Route. The team is currently making a second attempt to reach the top. Previously, strong winds forced them to turn back from C4. All five climbers of the expedition reached C3 yesterday and were hoping to make it to C4 today. They will make a summit-bid in the coming days, depending upon weather conditions.




AMICAL alpin team is currently in C3 (7000m) on GII and has to delay their summit plans due to bad weather. As per latest message from the team, it appears that Thursday, July 18th, will be the summit day. Apparently they will try to reach fourth Camp at 7400m before making summit push.


Led by Suzanne Husser, Kobler-Partner International GII Expedition also left BC on July 14th and was hoping to summit on the 17th. While the team hasn’t sent any dispatch recently, from the weather forecast it can be assumed that they may also attempt for the summit on the 18th.


Based in Lahore, Pakistan, telecom engineer and mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for ExplorersWeb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at AltitudePakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.




Pakistan 2013: Improvement in Weather, Summit Bids Underway


Artur Hajzer's Amazing Life


Significant Events on Broad Peak, Bad Weather All Around


Climbing Activities Pace Up in Karakoram



#Mountaineering #BroadPeak #GII #NangaParbat

Broad Peak 8047-M
Iranian route from BC to C3 on Broad Peak (Click to view full image).
Iranian route from C3 to Summit on Broad Peak (Green line on the left is Normal route, whereas green line on right depicts Denis Urubko's 2005 line of ascent).
Image showing different Camps on Schell's Route, Rupal side, Nanga Parbat.
courtesy Romanian Nanga Parbat 2013, SOURCE