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Summer 2013 Wrap Up: Summits and Distressing Situations in Karakoram

Posted: Jul 23, 2013 01:45 pm EDT

(By Raheel Adnan; Updated 23 July 2013, 10:49:25 EDT) There have been many significant events in Karakoram over past few days.


Search and Rescue on Broad Peak


Help couldn’t reach the three Iranian climbers, who got stuck above C3 after their Broad Peak ascent via a new route. They remained in contact with their home team till Saturday evening, but the communication is lost since then. Chances of their safety and rescue are depleting with every passing hour.


High altitude porters searched for them near the Broad Peak pass at 7800m, but were unable to locate the climbers. On Sunday, an unsuccessful heli-search of the mountain was also conducted. Another flight is planned over the identified section of mountain today. The section of the mountain has been selected by comparing GPS data of the last call they made, satellite maps and pictures taken by Thomas Laemmle during the previous aerial search.


As per Arash Mountaineering Club, Thomas wrote to the club yesterday, “... [it] will be the last chance to locate persons or bodies on the mountain. From tomorrow until 26th bad weather moves in and snow might cover everything. I will not carry any rescue equipment because of changing weather; it is not possible to do a rescue.”


Update: The helicopter couldn't fly to required height due to bad weather. Forecast suggests that weather may not improve for few days. Helicopter is back in Skardu.



Nanga Parbat Success


All four Romanian climbers have safely reached Base Camp after summiting Nanga Parbat. Marius Gane, Teo Vlad, Zsolt Torok, and Aurel Salasan made it to the top on July 19th via Schell route.


GII Summits


Utilizing the tiny weather window that lasted till July 21st, several climbers have reportedly made it to the top of GII.


The Taiwanese GII Expedition reports that two members of the team, Lu Chung-Han and Huang Wen-Chen, reached the summit on July 17th. Huang’s progress was a bit slow, but he eventually managed to reach the top at 1530hrs local time, approximately three hours after Lu. Two members of the team, Lin Wen-i and Chen Kuo-Chun, had to turn back due to exhaustion and a leg injury.


The list of Kobler-Parter Expedition summiteers is, Pierre Yves Bonvin, Muhammad, Kanchha Lama Sherpa, Ngima Chhiring Lama and Suzzane Husser. As previously reported, they also summited on July 17th.


On July 18th, AMICAL alpin team’s following members were atop GII: Thomas Lammle, Hans-Gunter Weinand, Helga Soll, Jurgen Greher, Jorg Klocke, Bastian Guggenberger, Volker Schumann, Nikolaus Gruber and HAP Ali Raza.


It’s also reported that Jose Rivadenerira of Ecuador made it to the top on July 19th.


As per update on Chris Burke’s blog, around a dozen climbers summited on July 21st. Kiwi Chris Jensen Burke, Lakpa Sherpa, Belgian Stef Maginelle and Guido Riemenschneider, Maltese Gregory Attard, Hungarian Varga Csaba were amongst those who reached the top.


International team of Grace McDonald, Mark Quinn and Jonathan Kedrowski, led by Arnold Coster, left BC on July 22nd. Their aim is to reach the summit on July 25th. Belgians Sofie and Koen are planning for summit on 26th.


Spanish firefighter Carlos Garranzo with two companions are awaiting weather window to go for summit.


Vague Situation on GI


Spanish climbers started the summit bid on July 21st. Oscar Cadiach and Patxi Goni retreated from around 7000m due to changing weather. Alfredo Garcia and David Lopez also turned back shortly before the summit, while Xevi Gomez, Alvaro Paredes and Abel Alonso made it to the top.


On the morning of 22nd, Alfredo Garcia called home and told that he couldn’t find the way back to C3 and spent the night in open. His family arranged to send the coordinates of C3 and Alfredo safely reached the camp. He is currently staying in the camp, awaiting weather to improve.


David Lopez also remained out of contact for long but eventually reached C1. He is tired but doing well otherwise.


Xevi, Alvaro and Abel were supposed to descend to C2 and contact Base Camp. But there hasn’t been any communication yet. An operation is being organized to go search for them. As per Desnivel, David Polo, Arkaitz Mendia, Alex Galiano and Argentine Mariano Galvan are in C2 (where they arrived at night) waiting for better weather to go up the Japanese Corridor.


Waiting at K2 BC


Around 21 climbers are waiting at K2 Base Camp for better weather to make an attempt to reach the summit. A summit window is expected after July 27th. So, teams will be leaving BC on 24th. All climbers will go via Abruzzi Ridge.


New Route on Uli Biaho


Three members of Italian team, Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach, have successfully opened a new route on the West Face of Uli Biaho Tower (6109m). The trio reached the top on Sunday, July 21, 2013. Originally, they intended to climb South East Face, but challenges of the wall forced them to change the plan. Ascent details will be available once the team returns.


Based in Lahore, Pakistan, telecom engineer and mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for ExplorersWeb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at AltitudePakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.




First Ascent of Kunyang Chhish East (7400m)


Romanians Summit Nanga Parbat, Update on Broad Peak Rescue


Iranian Broad Peak New Route: Complications on Descent


Summer 2013: New Route, Summits, Burials and Summit Bid


Summer 2013: Summit Pushes Update


Pakistan 2013: Improvement in Weather, Summit Bids Underway


#mountaineering #K2 #GI #GII #NangaParbat #BroadPeak

Gasherbrum I (left).
courtesy Alex Txikon/ ABC team, SOURCE
Iranian route from C3 to Summit on Broad Peak (Green line on the left is Normal route, whereas green line on right depicts Denis Urubko & Serguey Samoilov 2005 line of ascent).