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Waiting: The Usual Winter Nanga Parbat Business

Posted: Jan 27, 2015 10:26 am EST

(By Raheel Adnan) Winter Nanga Parbat has started showing its colour: hurricane winds thrash the summit and heavy snow is reported from valleys below. Teams on both side of the mountain are still in Base Camps; resting, recovering and waiting for better conditions. Nanga Parbat is known to keep climbers waiting for weeks. Nevertheless, there was a prolonged good weather window a week ago as we witnessed an incredible summit push on Diamir side and significant progress on Schell route.

Elisabeth Revol has already reached France. Tomek Mackiewicz’s injuries are being treated in Gilgit. Daniele Nardi and Russian team await better weather conditions. Alex Txikon and Iranian climbers are about to reach Diamir side of the mountain.

Learning the Art of ‘Chapati’

From Diamir BC, Daniele Nardi talks about lack of climbing activity and team’s involvement in various tasks to get through the bad weather spell. On Saturday night, he wrote, “we play cards, we drink tea, Roberto has to heat the gas tank with warm water, Federico makes a new movie while the gas is being ignited. I read a book, write news and see other men playing the game!”

Things haven’t changed much since then, as Daniele updated yesternight, “continues to snow. Here at base camp we take lessons to make Chapati and the Paratha. First mix flour and water, and add oil. A light cooking and the bread is done. Good lunch.”

Tomek in Hospital

Injured Tomek Mackiewicz, who left BC on Jan 21st, is now receiving medication in a hospital in Gilgit. Return journey was challenging due to injured leg, frostbitten feet and the snowstorm. About 50cm of snow fell the night Tomek was in Ser village. Polish climber says that the help from local villagers made his safe departure possible.

New Arrivals

Alex Txikon and three Iranian climbers are on the way to Diamir BC. As per Jasmine Tours (expedition operator for both teams), Alex left Chilas two days ahead of Iranians. A squad of ten security personnel is also trekking with the teams.

Russian Team

Schell route climbers returned to BC on January 20th and probably are still waiting for improvement in conditions. Latest message from team reads, “we set camps at 5100m, 6000m, 6700m and made a deposit at 7100m. There is hard winter ice everywhere above 6000m".



Based in Pakistan, mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.



Nanga Parbat: Elisabeth Revol's Account of Summit Push


Nanga Parbat: Summit Push Details and Update on Other Teams


Nanga Parbat: End of Tomek Mackiewicz’ Fifth Winter Attempt


Nanga Parbat: Tomek & Elisabeth are Back in BC and the New Entrants


Winter Nanga Parbat | Tomek and Elisabeth at 7000m, Going Up Slowly


Nanga Parbat current, interview with Ian Overton


Living Out Loud: An Artist on Nanga Parbat


Nanga Parbat Winter Recall


Dupre Summits Winter Denali


Nanga Parbat: Acclimatization and Progressing towards C2


Nanga Parbat Basecamps Established, Climbing Begins


Nanga Parbat Teams in Pakistan, K2 Climbers Hopeful


Russian team off to Nanga Parbat, route decided 


Winter 2015: Tomek Mackiewicz Begins Acclimatization


History of Winter Climbing Nanga Parbat


Winter 2014/15: Preparations Underway for Exciting Ventures



Wind sweeps the summit of Nanga Parbat. Photo taken by Daniele Nardi on Jan 23rd evening.
Making 'Chapati', a local form of bread consumed with each meal.