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Winter Nanga Parbat | Tomek and Elisabeth at 7000m, Going Up Slowly

Posted: Jan 15, 2015 10:54 am EST

(By Raheel Adnan) Winter teams are making significant progress on Nanga Parbat. Tomek and Elisabeth have reached around 7000m on Messner-Hanspeter Line. Russian team has fixed difficult sections of route to C2 on Schell Route. Daniele Nardi continues his work on Mummery Rib.

Tomek/Elisabeth in C4

Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol have made it to 7000m on Diamir side. It is their third foray up the Messner-Hanspeter 2000 route. Previously, they had acclimatized and fixed the route below 6000m.

After second rotation, the two climbers rested in BC for a couple of days. The current attempt started from BC on January 9th, whereas they made it to C2 on 10th. Tomek was hoping for a summit push chance. He told his home team from C2, “Tomorrow, [we will] traverse glacier to the right and sticks to the route, straight up. I hope that in four days, if the weather holds, we [will] join the Herman Buhl’s path.

However, fierce wind halted the team’s progress and by January 12th, they were still in C2. Next day, winds receded, allowing the climbers to reach C3 (6600m). “We are in C3. 6600m. Formations, which we climbed, are the most beautiful part of climbing in my life. Tomorrow, 7200 m. Then there is a window for the attack. This line is beautiful, but it is hardcore. Popped, blowing, but we are still moving. E [Elisabeth] is hard. Cold as hell." Tomek’s told his home team on 13th.

Yesterday (January 14th) was another good day, as Tomek and Elisabeth set up C4. “We are in C4 (around 7000m). Tomorrow [we will go] a little above, slowly due to lack of air. The views are amazing.” It’s not confirmed, as of now, whether they will be going for the summit from here or will retreat to BC for rest and recovery.


Russians Going Up

Between January 8th and 11th, the four men Russian team, extended the route fixation to 6000m. A message from team on January 11th reads, “We made deposit at 6000, fixed ropes up to the ridge, but we were swept by the wind from the ridge, so we are in BC again.” Yesterday (on Jan 14th), the team left BC again to resume route fixing.


Daniele Nardi on Mummery Spur

After first trip towards Mummery Rib on Jan 12th, Daniele Nardi said, "I just returned from 5100m where I fixed rope on the ice. Now I am at the BC. In coming days, I will climb to fix another rope that will take us to the base of Mummery Spur." Daniele and Roberto were scheduled to leave BC yesterday.


Visa Issues with Iranian Climbers
As per information from Asghar Ali Porik of Jasmine Tours Pakistan, the arrival of Iranian climbers is delayed due to visa issues. They are working to sort out the matter.



Based in Pakistan, mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.



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