28/05/2019

  • Death toll on Everest reaches 11.
  • Over 800 total summits on Everest.
  • The Everest backlash has reached its highest pitch since 1996. The NYT, Washington Post, CNN and many other major media outlets have run stories on the summit traffic jams contributing to the danger and even to some deaths.

Camp 2 at 7,700m on the north side of Everest. Photo: @drjonkedski

25/05/2019

  • Still more fatalities on Everest. Two dead on the north side near the North Col and a British climber has died descending from the summit on the south side. Total deaths this season on 8000’ers now at 20.
  • A few teams are still waiting to summit Everest.

Clilmbers approach the summit on May 23. Photo: Mountain Professionals

24/05/2019

Marek “Mara” Holeček and Zděnek “Hook” Hák climbed a new route up the 2,000m Northwest Face of Chamlang. Photo: Marek Holeček

23/05/2019

  • More Everest summits on both sides, including Elisabeth Revol sans O2.
  • Cory Richards and Esteban Mena have aborted their new route attempt on Everest north side.
  • Nirmal Purja summited Everest and Lhotse yesterday.
  • Significant traffic jams on May 22 and May 23 on the south side.
  • Two more deaths on Everest reported by The Himalayan Times.

It has been extremely busy on Everest’s south side. Photo: Lakpa Sherpa

22/05/2019

  • Ropes are finally fixed to the summit on Everest’s north side.
  • Big traffic jams on the Balcony but over 200 climbers are reported to have reached the summit from the south side today.
  • Climber Donald Cash has died during his descent.
  • Adventure Consultants have arrived at the Balcony (8,500m) early on May 23. The weather remains stable with “light snow, otherwise calm with no wind.”

Adrian Ballinger on the northeast ridge of Everest. Photo: Adrian Ballinger

21/05/2019

Teams are moving up on the north side of Everest but ropes are still not set to the summit. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures

20/05/2019

  • At least 14 climbers (7 Sherpas and 7 clients) with Imagine Nepal reached Everest’s summit from the south side early this morning. Imagine Nepal was the only team to attempt a summit push last night.
  • The majority of climbers on the south side are spread between Camp 2 and Camp 3.
  • May 21 and May 22 could be very busy, as teams prepare for two days of calm conditions on the summit.

Hernán Leal becomes the first climber from Chile to summit Kangchenjunga. Photo: Hernán Leal

19/05/2019

  • The jet stream is moving off the summit of Everest. Teams on both sides of the mountain are poised to move.
  • Adventure Consultants estimates that over 100 climbers have headed to Camp 3 and Camp 4. Wary of bottlenecks and “dire [weather] warnings in some forecasts“, this one company’s clients are staying low at Camp 2.
  • Cory Richards and Esteban Mena are waiting at ABC to attempt their new route on the north side.

It’s been hard work on Nuptse. Tim Mosedale was turned back from the summit on May 16. Photo: Tim Mosedale

18/05/2019

  • A number of climbers on Everest’s south side are waiting at Camp 2 for the next spell of good weather before their summit push.
  • On the north side, Furtenbach will leave Base Camp today, aiming to summit this week.

Everest’s north side. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures

17/05/2019

Kenton Cool takes a photo on the way down from a successful Everest summit. Photo: Kenton Cool

16/05/2019

Mingma David Sherpa takes a break on Annapurna. Photo: Mingma David Sherpa

15/05/2019

  • Nirmal Purja Magar bags Kangchenjunga as part of his project to summit every 8000’er in just seven months. He also reports a rescue in progress at around 8,400m on the mountain.
  • More summits on Everest, including Kami Rita Sherpa for the 23rd time.
  • Cory Richards and Esteban Mena have descended from their final acclimatization rotation on the north side of Everest.

A starry night on Everest’s north side. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures

14/05/2019

  • At least eight climbers have reached the summit of Everest on the south side, opening the route for the season.
  • International climbers on Everest will begin their summit pushes tomorrow morning.
  • A team of 12 have topped-out on Lhotse.
  • Rope-fixing teams have also reached the summit of Makalu.
  • Sergi Mingote and the team on Lhotse have added a new member, Ali Sadpara of Pakistan.
  • Unconfirmed reports state that nearly 30 climbers have reached Camp 3 on Kangchenjunga.
  • Lhotse summit bids are also underway.
  • Bielecki and Berg abandoned their Langtang Lirung climb. They turned back from 6,100m in “strong winds, constant snowfall and zero visibility.”

Bielecki and Berg’s exceptionally exposed Camp 2 on Langtang Lirung. Photo: Adam Bielecki

13/05/2019

  • Rope fixing teams have been delayed on both sides of Everest. The weather window this week may be shorter than forecasts had suggested.
  • Lhotse could see summits before Everest.

Richards and Mena on their projected new route. Photo: Cory Richards

12/05/2019

  • Ropes not yet fixed to the summit on Everest. Teams are still in a holding pattern.
  • The weather might allow summits from May 14 on Everest’s south side.

More waiting at Base Camp on Everest today. Photo: Himalayan Quests

11/05/2019

  • Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg have started their summit push on Langtang Lirung.
  • The rope-fixing team on the north side of Everest is back at ABC.
  • High camps on both sides of Everest are being stocked in preparation for the next weather window.

Teams are putting their feet up and waiting for a few calm days. Photo: Kenton Cool

10/05/2019

  • Winds have calmed considerably on Everest. There could be early summits this weekend.
  • A Sherpa has been seriously injured on Lhotse’s lower face. He has been airlifted off the mountain from 6,700m by helicopter.

Omani climber Nadhirah Alharthy crosses a crevasse on Everest. Photo: Elia Saikaly

09/05/2019

  • On Everest, winds are still strong above Camp 2 on the Nepal side and above the North Col on the Tibet side.
  • Nirmal Purja Magar “massively short of funds” for his attempt to climb 14 8,000m peaks in seven months. He will therefore be guiding on Manaslu.

A bird’s eye view of Everest Base Camp. Photo: Lakpa Norbu Sherpa

08/05/2019

  • Sherpas are moving gear up to the South Col on Everest.
  • High winds still reported above Camp 2 on the south side.
  • Some teams are returning to lower altitude villages to help their bodies recover from acclimatization rotations.

A Puja ceremony in ABC on Everest. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures

07/05/2019

  • Climbing rotations have resumed on the south side of Everest.
  • Strong winds above 8,000m have delayed rope-fixing to the summit on both sides of the mountain.

Richards and Mena shuttle gear to the base of their new route. Photo: Keith Ladzinski

06/05/2019

  • On Everest’s north side, Cory Richards and Esteban Mena are sitting tight. “Based on weather, we most likely won’t be able to get on the new route again for another two weeks,” Richards reported yesterday.
  • It is still windy above Camp 2 on the south side. Teams looking to rotate higher have been pushed back on the Lhotse face.
  • Is the gender-gap finally shrinking? Outside reports that 20% of climbers on the south side of Everest this season are women.

Esteban Mena heads to the base of a new route on Everest’s north side. Photo: Cory Richards

05/05/2019

  • Winds from Cyclone Fani destroyed “most” of the tents on the North Col of Everest.
  • Reports from Camp 2 on the south side claim over 100 tents have been destroyed and 70cm of fresh snow has fallen.
  • The winds have now calmed and acclimatization rotations should continue soon.

ABC on Everest’s north side, May 4. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures

04/05/2019

  • A quiet day on Everest as teams take shelter from high winds caused by Cyclone Fani
  • After an Indian Army mountaineering team claimed to have spotted Yeti footprints near Makalu Base Camp, the Nepali Army has put them in their place: “According to locals and porters such unusual footprints appear frequently in the area and are made by wild bears.”

Everest North Base Camp. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures

03/05/2019

  • Winds from Cyclone Fani struck Everest last night, a number of tents were blown away but no injuries reported
  • The fixed line has progressed on Everest’s north side as far as 8,300m. The rope-fixing team are now back at Base Camp
  • A number of teams on the north side spent a night at the North Col but have now descended back to Base Camp to wait out the wind

Rope training in ABC on Everest’s north side. Photo: Arnold Coster

02/05/2019

  • The Malaysian climber rescued from Annapurna, Wui Kin Chin, has died in hospital. Was his rescue delayed by red tape?
  • High winds and snow predicted on Everest over the weekend as Cyclone Fani hits India.
  • The rope-fixing team on the south side of Everest has reached the South Col and Camp 4. They will now head down as the weather turns.

Everest Base Camp, at the edge of the Khumbu Icefall. Photo: Aimee Silver

01/05/2019

  • The rope-fixing team on Everest’s Nepal side has almost reached the Geneva Spur. Tomorrow they will push on towards Camp 4 and the South Col.
  • Commercial teams are studying weather forecasts to determine when to begin their second rotations.
  • The Himalayan Times is reporting the death of a Nepali Sherpa on Cho Oyu near Camp 2.
  • Nirmal Purja Magar announces that he will try Dhaulagiri without O2 as part of his project to complete all 14 8000’ers within seven months.

Climber Rupert Jones-Warner approaches the summit of Annapurna. Photo: Don Bowie

30/04/2019

  • On Everest’s north side, Cory Richards and Esteban Mena have started on their new route at 7,300m
  • Commercial expeditions on the Nepal side are resting before the next set of rotations

Esteban Mena on Everest’s north side. Photo: Cory Richards

29/04/2019

  • Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg climbing “mainly at night” on Langtang Lirung due to poor snow conditions and constant avalanches
  • The rope fixing team are progressing on Everest’s north side, they have reportedly reached the North Col
  • Weather predictions for later this week show jet stream winds and heavy snow that might alter plans for the next set of rotations on Everest

Preparing for resue operations on Annapurna last week. Photo: Nirmal Purja Magar

28/04/2019

  • Teams that have rotated back to Base Camp on the south side of Everest are now resting up or conducting training exercises in the Khumbu icefall
  • Hamor, Colibasanu and Gane are busy fixing ropes on Dhaulagiri. The team are taking a one-day on, one-day off approach as they close in on a summit push
  • The Himalayan Times is reporting that Malaysian climber Wui Kin Chin will be airlifted to Singapore for further treatment

A glowing line shows climbers moving through the Khumbu icefall at night. Photo: Eric Daft

27/04/2019

  • Cory Richards and Esteban Mena are on the move towards Advanced Base Camp on Everest’s north side
  • Commercial teams are spread between Base Camp, Camp 1 and Camp 2 on the south side of Everest

Acclimatization rotations are still in progress for commercial teams. Photo: Madison Mountaineering

26/04/2019

  • Malaysian climber Wui Kin Chin has been airlifted from Annapurna Base Camp to Mediciti Hospital in Kathmandu
  • Fixed lines have been put in as far as Camp 3 on the Nepal side of Everest
  • A rope fixing team have been temporarily thwarted on the Tibet side. Deep snow on the North Col at around 7,000m turned them back, they will wait for conditions to improve before trying again
  • The Korean Lhotse expedition has reached Camp 2 at 7,200m and is now moving up to Camp 3

There has been steady progress up Lhotse by Hong Sung-Taek and his team. Photo: Korean Lhotse Expedition

25/04/2019

  • Missing Malaysian climber Wui Kin Chin has been found alive. A team of climbers have reached him on foot at around 7500m on Annapurna
  • Some Everest teams are now heading back towards Base Camp after their initial rotation up to Camp 2
  • After initial reports suggested the route to Camp 2 was in great shape, a bottleneck was snapped in the icefall. Will we be seeing conga lines of climbers this season?

Will we see excessive queueing on Everest this year? A photo of the first rotation to Camp 1 taken on April 19. Photo: Carlos Garranzo

24/04/2019

  • 32 climbers reach the summit of Annapurna – including Nirmal Purja Magar, the ex-Ghurka aiming to summit every 8000er in just seven months
  • Malaysian climber Wui Kin Chin goes missing on Annapurna descent
  • Everest climbers on the Nepal side (South) are on their first acclimatization rotations as far as Camp 2
  • A sherpa team from Madison Mountaineering look to be setting the route above 6,400m on the South side of Everest
  • Hamor, Colibasanu and Gane have arrived at the 4,200m Japanese Base Camp on Dhaulagiri
  • Korean Lhotse expedition is rotating from Camp 1 to Camp 2, they are reporting a good deal of fresh snow

Climbing through the icefall on acclimatization rotations. Photo: Madison Mountaineering