Weary Climbers Continue Down Jannu

The approximate position of Nilov and Golovchenko on March 29. Photo: mountain.ru

Fifteen days after setting off up the Southeast Face of 7,710m Mount Jannu, Sergey Nilov and Dimitry Golovchenko remain on the mountain.

The Russian duo have spent the last three days descending the Southwestern side of the mountain, loosely following the 1962 first ascent route. The second day was particularly hard due to poor visibility, but expected high winds did not materialize. On March 29, their GPS tracker read 6,995m.

Yesterday, March 30, the bonus calm weather continued, and the pair have continued their slow descent. The support team, led by Elise Kubarska, have been in contact by radio to advise them of the complex route ahead.

Kubarska is due to head up the Gunza valley and onto the Yamatari Glacier, climbing to around 5,000m to wait for the two weary and hungry climbers.

About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash Routen is an outdoor and adventure writer from the UK specialising in adventurous travel and expeditions, such as mountaineering, polar travel, and ocean crossings. Ash juggles a day job as a public health scientist with this second career in outdoor writing.

His words have featured in national newspapers, national and international outdoor and adventure magazines, and various websites. Bylines include Financial Times, Daily Telegraph, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice, and Red Bull.

Alongside writing, Ash also spends some time undertaking his own adventures, and completed a 640 km foot crossing of a frozen Lake Baikal in 2018. His next arctic journey is a 700 km trek along the coast of Baffin Island in Canada.

Read more at www.ashrouten.com

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3 Comments on "Weary Climbers Continue Down Jannu"

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Will C.

Many thanks for covering this expedition. There are a lot of us “Himalaya Junkies” out here, and we appreciate your effort in covering these adventures!


15 days on the mountain without support. This is real mountaineering at its purest. No help from Sherpa or other teams as is standard on most expeditions nowadays. These guys really deserve our appreciation. Hope they can descend safely soon.