Breaking: Mingote Summits GII, “Parasites” on K2

8000ers K2
Rope fixing on K2 above Camp 4. Photo: Seven Summit Treks

Gasherbrum II climbers have left Camp 3 for the summit. As on Nanga Parbat two weeks ago, all are joining forces to increase their summit chances. Sergi Mingote’s progress can be followed live through his RaceTracker. Latest update: He reached the summit at 7am local time on July 18 (10pm ET, July 17) and has begun his descent. Presumably others are with him.

Sergi Mingote is currently descending from the summit of Gasherbrum II.

The atmosphere is radically different on K2, where climbers are starting to suffer from bitter cold, long hours at high altitude and, seemingly, a lack of cooperation.

Mike Horn and Fred Roux, climbing without supplementary O2, have been forced to abandon their summit bid. “At around 1am, with strong winds, snow drifts and the lack of oxygen … we decided to return back down the mountain for safety,” Horn reported. Both are safely back in Base Camp but are reportedly suffering minor frostbite on their faces and feet.

Tough conditions and minor frostbite have forced Mike Horn to call off his K2 attempt. “I will be back,” he promised from Base Camp.

Meanwhile, Sherpas working to open the route above Camp 4 are far from happy at the lack of collaboration. “Temba Bhote, Kasang Dawa, Chhangba Sherpa, Gesman Tamang and Lakpa Temba Sherpa fixed line above the Bottleneck up to 8,320m by noon today,” Seven Summit Treks reported. “We really got no support from the other agencies [on the Abruzzi Spur]. Our team did all the fixing … and I cannot understand why this trend goes on every year.” The Sherpas are now back in Camp 4, getting ready to leave for the top.

Mingma Sherpa, whose Imagine Nepal climbers have reached their own Camp 4 via the Cesen route and are replacing STT in opening the upper sections to the summit, goes further in his criticism. “It looks only Seven Summit is taking the initiative,” he vented. Despite their planned collaboration, many climbers arrived in K2 with no ropes to fix and no intention of helping.

“Going back to their country, they call themselves alpinists or they say in public that they never used oxygen or had any Sherpa or Pakistani support,” said Mingma Sherpa. “All these parasites on K2 are sleeping in tents and monitoring the route but they have no courage to go out and help the fixing team.”

Speaking of courage, Mingma remarked that some of the Sherpas who were caught in yesterday’s avalanche have resumed their rope-fixing duties.

Not every foreign climber is sitting on his hands. Louis Rousseau of Canada and Rick Allen of Scotland did volunteered to help and fixed ropes from Camp 4 to 8200-8300m, together with 5 Sherpas — probably 7 Summit treks’ team — as Rousseau’s wife told ExplorersWeb. The climbers reached the Traverse beyond the Bottleneck at 2-3pm, Pakistan time. (On a latter update, Rousseau and Allen reported they had turned around at 8200-8300 due to excess of snow and returned to Camp 4).

Most other climbers have just left Camp 4.

Imagine Nepal’s photo from K2 Base Camp, showing the the Cesen route.

About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Sport journalist, published author and communication consultant. Feeling back home at ExplorersWeb after five years exploring distant professional ranges.

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9 Comments on "Breaking: Mingote Summits GII, “Parasites” on K2"

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Ivan Martinez
Guest

what a disgrace, poor sherpas!

Vladi
Guest

Im confused. Are the leaders from SST saying that regular climbers who paid their company to ‘take them to K2 summit’ should help fixing the ropes? I thought that company who organize the trip for their clients will take care of the route and their Sherpas will fix the ropes. Atleast thats how it works on Everest.

Anna
Guest
With all due respect, the confusion lies in a callous expectation that this is how climbing should be. K2 is not Everest; it is a feat fit for a collaboration of mountaineers. Everest is a famous international circus complete with clown acts featuring 50,000 pounds of human excrement, oxygen tanks and tent refuse. Mountaineering’s foundation is pack it in, pack it out. If someone doesn’t have the balls to be able to pack out their trash, they’re a troglodyte who should stay put in their feces-ridden cave. Literally and figuratively shitting all over the mountain and the local culture that… Read more »
Jason Bartel
Guest

I’m so disgusted at where climbing has evolved to. If you are a real climber you should be able to fix your own ropes. These people have no self respect. They don’t deserve to be on K2 rather they should be hiking up Pikes Peak. That’s where their abilities lie.

Paul wolf
Guest

Too many dumb tourists up there today. The guides have no right to complain, they earn q living off of this circus.

Vladi
Member

Exactly. What would the porters and Sherpas do, if only the ‘pro’ climbers would go Himalaya, how would they earn their living and take care of their families? Every coin has 2 sides, so called ‘tourists’ have paid lots of money to be there. Expedition companies are happy to take their money, so they shouldnt complain when ‘tourists’ cannot climb or fix ropes.

JDomenc
Guest

Why are commercial expeditions authorized on K2 Cesen route ? The presence of commercial expeditions prevents non-commercial climbers from climbing normally.

Damien Francois
Guest

“All these parasites on K2″. Yeah, right. But who are the parasites? ;-))))

peter page
Guest

We need a few idiots to die every now and again to liven things up and make it interesting, as long as they don’t kill innocent sherpas / Hap’s along with them then bring it on