Moro and Lunger Aim For Gasherbrum Traverse

Winter 8000ers
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger announce their upcoming winter traverse of Gasherbrum. Photo: Simone Moro

Mountaineering heavyweight Simone Moro has announced his winter 8,000m plans. In mid-December, he and partner Tamara Lunger will return to the Karakorum to climb Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak. From the summit, they will descend to the Gasherbrum La, a col at approximately 6,500m leading to Gasherbrum II. If conditions permit, they will then go for the double-header.

Gasherbrum II was first climbed in winter by Moro himself in February 2011, together with Denis Urubko and Cory Richards. Adam Bieleki and Janusz Golab of Poland bagged Gasherbrum I a year later, on March 8.

Notching both at the same time, in winter, would be a remarkable feat. In 1984, one of the most powerful teams in Himalayan history, Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander, did this double-header in summer. It was the first-ever traverse between two 8,000ers (without returning to Base Camp) and has never been never repeated in any season, until now.

“Thirty-five years later, Tamara Lunger and I want to repeat the feat, but in winter,” said Moro.

Moro and Lunger in their hypobaric chamber. Photo: Simone Moro

Instead of traditional acclimatization, Moro and Lunger are using a hypobaric chamber installed in the Eurac research centre in their hometown of Bolzano, Italy. Thus pre-acclimatized, they can begin climbing as soon as they reach Base Camp. Physiologists are monitoring the experiment and will also test how long the acclimatization lasts after the climbers return from Pakistan. They have already been sleeping in the chamber for two weeks, and as of today, they’ll remain inside 24/7, training on a treadmill, Montagna.tv reported. But the ultimate arbiter of the success of the experiment will be the Karakorum.

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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anonymous
anonymous
1 year ago

Moro was on the team that climbed Gasherbrum II in winter. The winter ascent of Gasherbrum I followed a year later by the Polish team.

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Jerry Kobalenko
Admin
1 year ago
Reply to  anonymous

Thank you, you’re right. Corrected.

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anonymous
anonymous
1 year ago

It seems that Moro and Lunger will be sharing the area with Urubko’s team (for Broad Peak and possibly K2). Too bad Moro has said he isn’t interested in K2 Winter!

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Peter Green
Peter Green
1 year ago

Hypobaric, not hyperbaric

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Jerry Kobalenko
Admin
1 year ago
Reply to  Peter Green

Nice! Corrected, thanks.

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