Alex Txikon Summits Ama Dablam

Winter 8000ers

Taking advantage of a narrow window of tolerable weather, Alex Txikon summited 6,812m Ama Dablam at 10:15am local time today. “It’s been a tough ascent,” the Basque climber said by satphone from the summit. “Wind hit us hard all the way up.”

Txikon and partners Jonatan García, Pasang Sherpa, Cheppal Sherpa and Kalden Sherpa left Camp 3 at 6,300m and reached topped out on the aesthetic spire of Ama Dablam, considered one of the loveliest of all Himalayan peaks, approximately six hours later.

Video: Alex Txikon

Previously, the front-line team set up three higher camps and fixed the route to the summit. However, when they started the climb two days ago, they found out that high winds swept off three tents and part of the expedition gear previously cached at Advanced Base Camp. The lack of room forced the rather large team to split up into three groups over the different camps. Others are now making their way toward the summit.

Everyone is expected back in Base Camp later today. Although the winds have dropped in the few hours since Txikon’s ascent, by Monday, 100km winds are expected to return.

This marks the year’s first successful winter climb. Parties are also currently on Broad Peak, K2 and Everest.

About the Author

Jerry Kobalenko

Jerry Kobalenko

Jerry Kobalenko is the editor of ExplorersWeb. Canada's premier arctic traveler, he is the author of The Horizontal Everest and Arctic Eden, and is currently working on a book about adventures in Labrador. In 2018, he was awarded the Polar Medal by the Governor General of Canada.

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4 Comments on "Alex Txikon Summits Ama Dablam"

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Last I checked, Ama Dablam is not an 8000m peak

Dauwa Sherpa

All the best for his Winter Everest Expedition 🤯 💥


Great news, now lets keep fingers crossed for Alex on Everest.