Everest: Kobusch, Txikon on the Move

Everest Winter 8000ers
The Lho La as seen from Alex Txikon's Base Camp. Photo: Txikon #roadtohimalayas

Jost Kobusch has been laying low for the last two days, offering no details about his injured foot and general state of health or his latest venture up the Lho La, which culminated in a forced descent in the middle of the night. Instead, his posts focused on old friends and college memories. However, Kobusch has now set off again up Everest. According to his tracking device, he was not far from his Camp 1 at 6,000m after night fell in Nepal.

Jost Kobusch’s latest track, one hour before this screenshot. Photo: MountEverest3d.de

In Base Camp, Alex Txikon confirmed to Explorersweb that Kobusch started climbing early this morning, but he wondered about the German climber’s ultimate plans. “His kitchen staff have said that he’ll be on the mountain for at least three days,” said Txikon.

Before starting his expedition, Kobusch told ExplorersWeb that he intended to approach Everest as an exploratory experience rather than treating the summit as a must-do. So all his options are open.

Alex Txikon and his team are also preparing to climb for several days. They have not confirmed whether they’ll leave tomorrow or Thursday, but they plan to spend the weekend fixing the route to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Wall and possibly further. Txikon hopes that they can reach the South Col and fix Camp 4 on this trip. If they feel acclimatized enough, this will be their last camp before the summit push.

Alex Txikon and Khumbu, the team’s mascot. Photo: @DiegoMartinezPh

Broad Peak

Denis Urubko has also been silent since helping his pneumonia-stricken partner, Don Bowie, down to Base Camp three days ago. He has not even confirmed his summit intentions. But knowing Urubko, it is likely that he will try, if the Baltoro weather gives him a chance.

Meanwhile, a controversial Instagram post from Lotta Hintsa, Don Bowie’s protegé, has angered dozens of readers. Rather than credit Urubko for sacrificing his own summit bid to help her partner, Don Bowie, she seemed intent on pointing out that she had  “made history” by standing higher than any other female on a winter Karakorum expedition to an 8,000’er. Bragging about minor firsts has become all-too-common in adventure, but when you’re a relative novice sharing a tent platform with the likes of Denis Urubko, many observers felt that she needed a good dose more modesty.

Anyway, she is wrong: Tamara Styś stood well over 7,000m on Gasherbrum I during its first winter ascent back in 2012, while Hinsta reached just 6,600m two weeks ago.

She also used much of the post to insist that she was not rescued from Broad Peak Base Camp, but merely accompanied Bowie on the chopper back to Skardu.

Lotta Hintsa high on Broad Peak. Photo: Don Bowie

About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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8 Comments on "Everest: Kobusch, Txikon on the Move"

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Didn’t Tamara Lunger get above 8000m on the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat? And Elisabeth Revol summitted NP too in winter.


According to Google, NP is a part of the Himalayas and the rest of the Pakistani 8000ers are Karakoram, whoops, but still a very obscure claim (even if its false).


Yes, it is obscure, even ridiculous claim – from the viewpoint of an alpinist whose main aim is climbing. It’s a different story if your main focus is about being seen, being THE ONE, plus instagram generation cannot really understand the difference between announcing some relevant achievement in public and announcing something of merely personal importance that in times before internet used to be told just family and friends.


Who is this girl?! What have she actually achieved? Just because she´s climbing with Urubko doesn´t make her a pro.


She is a young Finnish woman who is working hard to become a serious climber with Bowie’s help. Very few women have done winter climbing in the great ranges and those who do are a new emerging elite (with Revol and Lunger the most notable at this time).


drama with Lotta – I read her post and did not catch this perspective. It sure was more fun reading about Tamara’s save…
Hope Denis gets a shot at the summit!


Well, the drama brings attention of media and that is what these climbers need, they need to promote their stories and their sponsors. If she is first or not doesnt really matter if she did not reach the summit.