Manaslu: 6,650m Reached Via a New Line

Manaslu Winter 8000ers
The new variation route sneaks through the serac barrier further to the right than the usual one. Photo: Alex Txikon

All Manaslu climbers are back in Base Camp after their third and possibly last rotation before the final summit push.

Over the last four days, Alex Txikon has been fixing a new route from Camp 1 to 6,650m. “Phew, I am exhausted but so happy,” Txikon said. “The new variation route is great, really alpine!”

The new route in yellow compared to the usual line in magenta. An impassable bergschrund forced the climbers to devise this alternative. Photo illustration: Ana Azpilicueta/Alex Txikon

“Alex’s team did a beautiful job,” said Simone Moro. “They were able to climb the serac and cross most of the plateau above in the direction of Camp 3.”

The team will now rest and watch the weather closely. “With all the wind I…pray that over 7,000m we will find hard snow or ice,” said Simone Moro. [It] would make a nice gift of fate on my third winter expedition to Manaslu.”

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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