Mingma G Makes it! Manaslu True Summit Video

8000ers Manaslu
Do you see these two peaks? Then you are on the true summit of Manaslu. Frame from Mingma G's Imagine Nepal video

Mingma G is back in Base Camp and has something to say: He and his team have reached the true summit of Manaslu. And he can prove it.

The IFMGA guide posted a 360º summit video of Manaslu on his FaceBook page. It leaves no room for doubt.

One of the climbers, photographer Jackson Groves, flew a drone near the summit and captured remarkable stills and footage that he posted on Instagram here. The bottom photo, in particular, shows the summit ridge of Manaslu as it has never been seen.

Here, the main summit, on the far right, is obvious. A main group of climbers converges on one of the foresummits. Meanwhile, Mingma G and one other climber are pioneering the steep traverse below them, before eventually climbing up to the summit. The detour is necessary to avoid the precarious downclimb and the sharp, unstable arete between the last foresummit and the summit.

Definitely, that’s the TRUE summit

Tobias Pantel of The Himalayan Database and one of the main researchers on 8000ers.com’s Manaslu Summit Area report has shared his (educated) opinion with ExplorersWeb after discussing the images with other experts:

“I think it is definitely the true summit!” he said. “You can clearly see the Himal Chuli range to the south, which is not possible to spot from any of the foresummits, nor even from the final summit ridge because there is a bump in between. On his video, Himal Chuli and Himal Chuli West are in full view.

Moreover, Pantel has noted that the team followed a very smart strategy. They probably followed the fixed ropes to the foresummmit. Then, instead of skirting the top of the knife-edge ridge, the team traversed the west side of the slope until right below the highest point, then climbed up.

This required a final climb up very steep terrain, but it avoided the huge, dangerous cornices of the summit ridge. In autumn, in particular, the ridge is overloaded with snow.

Now, how about the others?

The video shows the sharp downhill in front of him and the snow bumps behind, where he notes that the “summit point” was located in previous years. We can see some of his team heading up a steep snow slope, attached to just one blue rope. There is no trace of the white ropes and prayer flags visible in the other summit pictures shared during the last three days.

“This should be the first-ever summit of Manaslu in autumn,” Mingma said, indirectly confirming that they had reached further than previous teams, including the initial rope fixers. Imagine Nepal reached the summit at 9:38 am yesterday.

The question now is whether those teams who topped out later in the day or who headed up from Camp 4 today followed Mingma G’s lead or stopped at a foresummit.

As for Mingma himself, he is crystal clear about the way to go: “I hope there will be no more foresummit[s] in future. Top is always Top, no more ups, everything below you,” he said.

Weather and snow conditions yesterday were very good, so Imagine Nepal team’s footprints remained as a clear sign that someone went further than the end of the fixed ropes. The trail is broken, and the final point should now be clear to everyone else on the mountain.

Moreover, according to Tobias Pantel, sources from the mountain say that Mingma G’s crew fixed ropes to the main summit. “So, we’re waiting for more teams to follow in the next few days,” Patel said. “From the info I have gathered, it’s not so easy to get to the main summit, but maybe for smaller teams, it should be fine.”

No more excuses

Mingma G was the only team leader currently on Manaslu who openly shared his intention to reach the true summit. For this, he surrounded himself with a highly skilled Sherpa team. Many were international IFMGA guides and members of Nepal’s National Mountain Guide Association. As for the team’s clients, a previous report noted that some of them might have gone without supplementary O2. Confirmation will emerge later, as everyone will surely share pictures and impressions about the summit experience.

Imagine Nepal’s Sherpa team at Manaslu BC. Photo: Mingma G

For now, they have shown everyone how to climb Manaslu fairly. They put their clients on the summit as promised and open the trail for everyone else. No more excuses.

All the previous summit pictures shared on social media, as far as we know, were not from the main summit, but from just below one of the foresummits, identified as C2 in the 8000ers.com report:

“The final summit ridge extends beyond to the SE for some 20m further, although it is hardly visible from where the climbers stand (at the prayer flags point).”

File image of Manaslu’s summit area. This season, all climbers stood before C2 except for Mingma G’s team, which traversed the mountain to the main summit (4). Photo: Guy Cotter from Eberhard Jurgalski’s Manaslu Summit Area report

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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paul
paul
27 days ago

so mesner did not reach manaslu summit?

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Paulo
Paulo
26 days ago
Reply to  paul

Apparently, no!

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wes
wes
26 days ago
Reply to  paul

ever since these articles have come up the past few years i have wondered about him and all the others and if anyone has truly done all the 8000’s

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Pawel
Pawel
26 days ago
Reply to  paul

He did. He climbed Manaslu by South-West Face, new route, first ever no O2 ascent. That face leads directly to the summit.

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Paulo
Paulo
26 days ago
Reply to  Pawel

Ok. I was mistaken on the comment above, then.

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gian piero
gian piero
26 days ago
Reply to  Pawel

Additionally, he took the Japanese piton left by the team during the first ascent.

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Jochen Hemmleb
Jochen Hemmleb
26 days ago
Reply to  gian piero

The Japanese piton was proof that he made the true summit, but the SW face doesn’t lead directly to the summit – on the contrary, Messner’s expedition had to cross the vast summit plateau and two members were lost in a storm there.

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wes
wes
26 days ago

is it just me or is there a snow bump still taller than him in the video?!

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Pawel
Pawel
26 days ago

Stunning video from drone published in InstaStory by .groves shows everything!

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RealSSS.png
F v
F v
26 days ago
Reply to  Pawel

Wow that drone flights from the summit in his ig stories are stunning! In one of the last you can see mingma almost reached the point where he made his video.

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Keyboard warrior
Keyboard warrior
26 days ago
Reply to  Pawel

Cheaters? Who died and made you king? Who is cheating whom? You seem like someone who’ll never be able to get to where the ‘cheaters’ got to. With or without O2. Lmao.

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Pawel
Pawel
26 days ago

If someone not climb to the summit but says that climbed it, how I should call that person??

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Keyboard warrior
Keyboard warrior
26 days ago
Reply to  Pawel

It’s not for you to say call that person anything. They didn’t cheat you out of any terms or the world with their activity. People can choose to climb till wherever and declare what they’ve done. If someone stepped on the foresummit and declared that as their successful summit, and you don’t agree, move on. Set better standards for yourself.

You clearly would rather do other things like sit at home and pass loose comments.

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Hugues G
Hugues G
26 days ago

On appel ça l’honnêteté.

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Keyboard warrior
Keyboard warrior
25 days ago
Reply to  Hugues G

Je respecte votre sentiment d’honnêteté cher ami, mais l’attitude de cette personne m’a juste énervé. tout le monde a un voyage que les autres ne connaissent pas. trop souvent, les gens sans pieu font des commentaires désagréables. J’ai demandé au gars de se fixer de meilleures normes, mais il parle de grimper au k2 sans o2 en sous-vêtements. – des accents subtils d’arrogance encore si vous voyez ce que je veux dire.

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Pawel
Pawel
25 days ago

as long as you climb only for yourself, you could climb whatever you want, how you want and thinking that you did K2 in winter without O2 only in underwear, but if you announce to the world that you climbed summit but in fact you made it only to the foresummit, then you are cheater because you falsely inform the whole climbing community about your achievement. And you don’t know me so stop making some comments about me. I do not have problems with admitting what I have climbed, if I had to turn around even few meter from summit,… Read more »

B Johnson
B Johnson
23 days ago

Mr Keyboard Warrior, the issue here is climbers claiming to have stood on the summit when they clearly did not. If you stop at the top of the Hilary Step can you claim to have summited Everest? The same goes for stopping on the fore-summit of Makalu, you did not make the summit. Makalu is like Manaslu the highest point is another 20-30m further away and maybe 10m higher from the fore-summit. The “cheaters” as Pawel called them, are only cheating themselves by falsely claiming to have stood on the summit when they did not. Therefore they are lying to… Read more »

christine wierbietzki
christine wierbietzki
26 days ago

Mingma G(od) … epic year ! well played

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Last edited 26 days ago by christine wierbietzki
Hugo Torres
26 days ago

Then it looks that most of the climbers who aparently summited the 14 highest summits in the world, in fact did not! What a surprising reality!

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