Tyler Andrews of the U.S. and Karl Egloff of Ecuador are both trying to set an FKT (Fastest Known Time) on Everest in far-from-ideal conditions. Despite high winds on the upper sections, the climbers have no choice. With the pending closure of the Khumbu Icefall route, it’s now or never.
Each has a different strategy. Egloff has decided to stick to his original plan to use no supplemental oxygen. He is also attempting a round-trip record time — from Base Camp to summit and back to Base Camp. He started at 6 pm Nepal time, as previously stated.
Karl Egloff. Photo: Instagram
Meanwhile, Tyler Andrews changed plans at the last minute and decided to use bottled oxygen because of the bad weather. He has also left Base Camp much earlier than planned, setting off at 8:04 pm Nepal time, just two hours after Egloff.
Tyler moves ahead
From the beginning, Andrews progressed at a slightly faster pace. Indeed, he doesn’t need to husband his strength like Egloff, who will go without oxygen assistance both to the summit and back down.
Shortly before midnight, the runners’ trackers showed that Andrews had caught Egloff at about 6,400m and was accelerating away. He was reportedly already on oxygen.
Tyler Andrews. Photo: Tyler Andrews
“Tyler [Andrews] got onto oxygen from Camp 2,” Dawa Steven Sherpa told ExplorersWeb. “Winds are too high for a no-O2 attempt.”
Once he chose to use bottled gas, the goal changed. “Andrews is now aiming to break the record with oxygen of [10 hours 56 minutes 46 seconds],” said Dawa Steven. He is referring to the time set by Lakpa Gelu Sherpa on May 25-26, 2003.
Follow the race
At the time of writing this story, it is 1:45 am in Nepal, and Tyler Andrews is at 7,168m. He is already near the highest point he reached on his first attempt last week.
Meanwhile, Karl Egloff’s tracker has lost its signal: He carries an InReach Mini, which can lose connection on Everest, especially in the sheltered bits between Camp 2 and the South Col. His latest position is below.
Location of Karl Egloff on Everest shortly after midnight, Nepal time. Photo: Garmin
Tyler Andrews’ progress can be tracked here. Karl Egloff’s location can be viewed here, once his signal returns.
