Pakistan is generating a surprising amount of news from off-season climbing teams. Most recently, a Polish team has opened a new route on the beautiful Laila Peak, and a world-class American team is on its way to unclimbed K13.
New route on Laila
Jedrek Myslinski, Przemek Pawlikowski, and Jacek Pawel Czech have climbed Laila Peak via a new route. We have no details so far; the climbers are still on descent from the summit.
Similar to the Russian team on Baintha Brakk, the forecast weather window was not as good as expected, and the weather deteriorated overnight between Saturday and Sunday. The Polish climbers topped out yesterday but had to stop and bivouac slightly below the summit soon after. Today, they should reach the col. It will not be a pleasant descent: the forecast indicates 8cm of fresh snowfall.
We won’t know for sure until the Polish team is safely down, but conditions on the peak may have been better than the usual climbing season. In July this year, extraordinarily high temperatures caused difficult conditions and constant rockfall, which eventually took the life of young German climber Laura Dahlmeier.
The Polish team, before heading for Laila Peak. Photo: Lela Peak Expeditions
Saltoro first ascents
Another team is also looking for first ascents in the Saltoro region.
The Polish-Slovak team at Skardu Airport, with Ali Saltoro of Adventure Alpine Guides Pakistan. Photo: Ali Saltoro
The team comprises Michal Czech and Wadim Jablonski from Poland, with Adam Kaniak from Slovakia. They have two unclimbed peaks in mind, Chumik Kangri and Gharkun Tower.
The team has been in the mountains since August 26. They have now pitched Camp 2 on Chumik Kangri and hope to reach the summit this week.
Endless possibilities
Saltoro’s valleys are surrounded by granite spires with endless possibilities for alpine-style teams. Yet climbers have rarely visited the area since 1980, when the Pakistan government closed the area to climbing expeditions because of its proximity to the Siachen glacier and disputed territory in Kashmir. Recently, some valleys were reopened.
“There are three valleys in the Saltoro, each with many unnamed and unclimbed peaks below 7,000m,” Ali Saltoro of Alpine Adventure Guides Pakistan told ExplorersWeb. “Most of the peaks are right on the roadside, which allows for an easy approach by jeep. I believe this area is going to become the next Patagonia for alpine-style climbers.”
A granite climbing paradise is easily accessible in Saltoro. Photo: Ali Saltoro
Alaskans for K13
After their impressive first ascent of Yashkuk Sar, Americans Dane Steadman and Cody Winckler are back in Pakistan, this time with Blake Brandon. Their goal is the first complete ascent of Dansan Peak, also known as K13. K13 is a 6,666m peak in the Kondus Valley, not far from the Saltoro region.
Left to right, Dane Steadman, Blake Brandon, and Cody Winckler, with outfitter Ali Saltoro (in the yellow jacket) and their local base camp team. Photo: Alpine Adventure Guides Pakistan
There are a couple of previous ascents to the west point of Damsam, by a Japanese team in 1981 and a Spanish-French team in 2021. However, the main summit remains unclimbed.
Juho Knuuttila of Finland, Eivind Hugaas of Norway, and Nelson Neirinck of Belgium attempted the north face in 2021, but bad conditions pushed them back at 5,500m, Alpymon reports.
Saltoro told ExplorersWeb that the Americans reached Base Camp today.
We are also waiting for news from yet another Polish team currently in the Karakoram: Tomek Kujawski, Wojtek Mazik, and Piotr Rozek set off to open a new alpine-style route on the southwest summit of K7 (also known as Badal Peak) over three weeks ago.
