In The Traverse, alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Leo Gheza attempt to complete Patagonia’s iconic Fitz Roy Traverse. It’ll mean over 4,000 vertical meters of climbing, at the mercy of Patagonia’s famously changeable weather.
The film launches right into it with little preamble. The weather was good, so they took their chance. Immediately, they realize that they may have been overly sanguine regarding the weather. Strong winds whip their ropes, sending them dancing near-horizontally above the chasm beneath. The two-man team presses on, ticking off the first peak, Aguja Guillaumet, in only a few hours.
Making their way down from the second peak, Aguja Mermoz, Della Bordella and Gheza find a flattish patch of rock to set up for the night.
The bivouac spot offers scenic views, but has little else to recommend it by way of amenities. Photo: Screenshot
At the mercy of the winds
Day two dawns with perfect, clear weather. But the climbing is intense, and soon it becomes unfeasible to simul climb. The wind continues to pick up, slowing their pace and making them fight for every meter gained.
Three hundred meters from the summit, Matteo decides it isn’t safe to continue. With the wind blowing and water running, the chance of an accident is too high. The pair pop up a tent on the summit of Goretta.
Day three begins, seemingly, in conditions designed to reward their prudence. The rock is dry, and the wind has died down. The pair is only one sheer 300m wall of rock away from the summit.
An intimidating rock face awaits them on day three. Photo: Screenshot
“Now, this is climbing,” Matteo remarks in Italian. Indeed, they’re making good progress under a bright sun. Before noon, they’re on the summit of Fitz Roy. Della Bordella has summited Fitz Roy three times already. There are still two more peaks to go, however, before they’ve bagged the traverse.
At the peak, they hear on the radio that the weather is about to turn dramatically. There is no way they can continue.
Rappelling down from the peak is bittersweet. On one hand, they will be unable to complete the traverse. On the other, it’s looks really fun. Photo: Screenshot
“In the mountains, it’s like this,” Matteo says with a rueful laugh. He doesn’t regret the decision at all, he says. The pair will return one day to complete it.
