Mirco Grasso of Italy and Jernej Kruder of Czechia have opened an impressive new 750m route, with difficulties up to 7c, in Chile’s Cochamo Valley. Although increasingly popular, it remains a wild place with great climbing. It shows Patagonia’s potential beyond the spectacular but obvious landmarks of Torres del Paine and Fitzroy.
Grasso and Kruder set their base camp at La Junta, in the center of the Cochamo Valley, early this year. The site lies a two-hour drive from the Chilean city of Puerto Montt and a three-hour hike along the access trail. During a brief weather window, the climbers identified a suitable new line up Cerro Walwalun, which they described as the most imposing peak in the area.
Topo of Tarock route, courtesy of the climbing team.
First bolted, then free
As soon as a second window opened, the climbers went for their new line. It took them three days to complete the route with bolts.
During the climb. Photo: Vladek Zumr
The route has two distinct sections. The first part (up to the large mid-line ledge) goes along smooth, technical slabs, and requires spaced protection and balanced climbing. The second part features extraordinary cracks and corners, as well as sustained, aesthetic climbing on exceptional granite.
“The upper section is pure joy: incredible cracks, always climbable, never boring,” the climbers said. “Every pitch had character. It was one of those moments when you realize you’re blazing a special line.”
On the first ascent, the climbers used 29 bolts in total (18 drilled, 11 placed by hand), 15 pitons for progression and belays, and traditional, non-permanent protection (Friends and offsets).
Dirty and wet
When the third weather window arrived, Grasso and Kruder free-climbed the route, also in three days. The crux came on the final pitch.
“It was dirty and wet, [but] Jernej Kruder set off with determination, with a few liberating shouts,” Grasso said. “When he clipped the belay cleanly, we knew it was done.”
Smooth granite on Tarock. Photo: Vladek Zumr
Czech photographer and filmmaker Vladek Zumr supported the climbers.
They named the route Tarock after a card game they played during long rainy days while waiting to climb.
