Pakistan Alpine Style: Waiting Games

Bad weather has stalled the progress of alpine-style teams in the Karakoram, from the 6,000’ers to K2. Most have spent the time acclimatizing and waiting in Base Camp. One secretive team has finally revealed its goal.

Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima remain at their Advanced Base Camp at the foot of the West Face of K2. The highest they have reached so far is 6,700m. They hope that the weather will clear in time to launch a single summit push before their planned departure on July 23.

“Shitty weather!” vented Mathieu Maynadier after weeks with Pumari Chhish wrapped in thick clouds. Together with the Ladevant brothers and the local Base Camp team, he has tried to while away the days by training on nearby boulders and playing baseball with a snow shovel.

Climbers playing baseball in a grassy plain in a very foggy day on Pumari Chhish Pakistan

Base Camp baseball while the mountain remains hidden in clouds. Photo: muizz.din

Plans unveiled

Helias Millerioux and Yannick Graziani have revealed their goal: the southeast ridge of Trivor (approx. 7,600m). They are waiting in base camp for a summit chance after acclimatizing for two days. They also climbed a 1,200m snow couloir that leads to their Camp 1 at 5,960m.

“Beyond, there is an impossible ridge in mixed terrain and with very steep cornices that seem difficult to traverse,” Millerioux said, noting the route ahead is full of uncertainties. “The crux will be definitely the cornices, up to M4.”

Tribor peak at sunset with some clouds on its flanks, seen from Hunza, Pakistan

Trivor’s altitude varies with the source, ranging from 7,577m to 7,640m. Photo: Wikipedia

 

Meanwhile, Ales Cesen and Tom Livingstone have still not said which peak they want to climb, but they have posted some photos of their acclimatization in the Gasherbrums area. Last year, they attempted Gasherbrum III. At the beginning of the season, it was said that the climbers had permits for Broad Peak and K2.

Other teams have no connection with the outside except for InReach or satphones, and news about them will have to wait. This includes Joshua Harrin’s international team on Karun Koh and the Spaniards on K7.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.