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(Expedition Dispatch) Horia Colibasanu has managed yet another premiere for Romanian climbing, but also a remarkable sporting performance at international level: he climbed the Everest peak 8848m without supplementary oxygen and without the help of a team of Sherpa.
“It was terribly heavy, very cold. I succeeded. I’m fine, I take the pictures on the top and get off. On the other side of the peak are the expeditions that climb the southern route, “Horia said immediately as he reached the top.
The ascent lasted almost 12 hours, Horia’s last camp being 8300 m.
He climbed in parallel with the Sherpa who installed the Everest rope for the 2017 season, and Horia’s decision to move faster to the top had two reasons: avoid crowds to reduce his exposure on altitude, and have time in case of unfavorable weather for more attempts.
Horia is coming down to an altitude of less than 8,000 meters to rest, this stage of the expedition being important and risky considering it is very tired. Dispatch (Romanian)
Horia Colibasanu was the mountaineer who climbed Annapurna with Spanish Inaki Ochoa in his last, fatal ascent.
Following a 14 hours non-stop climb, the two turned around very close to the top and descended to camp 4 at around 7400 meters where Inaki became ill. Horia spent 4 days on the punishing altitude trying to aid his mate while making desperate calls for help on a dying sat phone. The duo was finally reached by Ueli Steck. Horia survived, but it was too late for Ochoa.
Recently, Ueli Steck fell to his death on Nuptse.
Over almost 20 expeditions the Romanian mountaineer has climbed half of the fourteen 8000ers, including K2. He carries his own gear, sets his own camps, breathes without artificial help, plans his own climbs, and typically tracks/fixes his own route.
Related
Everest North Side without Oxygen: Horia (and Ralf) getting ready for summit attempt
