Francois Cazzanelli Attempting Nanga Parbat, K2, and Broad Peak Without O2

Last year, Italian Francois Cazzanelli led a team up on Kongde Ri and Tengkampoche.in Nepal. He then ran up Ama Dablam in 5 hrs 32 min 6 sec from BC to summit. In 2019, the speed climber also raced up Manaslu and made it from Base Camp to foresummit in 13 hours.

Recently, we asked Cazzanelli about his future plans, but he said that he never speaks publicly about his climbing projects until he actually does them.

Well, now he’s doing them. He and his team have just landed in Islamabad, bound for Nanga Parbat, perhaps via a new route. They will then make a speed ascent of K2 and maybe Broad Peak, all without O2 or Sherpa support.

The Italians atop Kongde Ri. Photo: Francois Cazzanelli

 

The Nanga Parbat team includes two of Cazzanelli’s Tengkampoche partners, Jerome Perruquet and Emrik Favre. Marco Camandona, Pietro Picco, and Roger Bovard have also joined the K2 adventure. All are young but highly skilled alpinists and rescue specialists from the Aosta Valley, on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. None intend to use supplementary O2.

First, the team will travel together to Nanga Parbat. They don’t have much time before they have to head to the Karakoram. If weather and conditions permit, they will attempt a new route swiftly. Otherwise, they’ll turn to the normal Kinshoffer route.

The team then heads for K2, except for Bovard, who wil guide some trekkers up the Baltoro, and Marco Camandona, who has already summited K2 and will head instead to Broad Peak, Upclimbing reported.

Cazzanelli intends to launch a fast, non-stop push on K2. Afterward, if he feels strong enough, he will head for Broad Peak.

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with ExplorersWeb.com.

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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Zayn
18 days ago

Good to know that more people have courage to climb these 8000ers of Pakistan without O2.
Although these peaks specially K2 and Nanga Parbat could be very serious and dangerous for climbers…
Goodluck!

Shoaib
Shoaib
17 days ago

It’s not a easy task to summit both dangerous mountains Without Oxygen. Good luck team and best Wishes.👍