A quiet American team has made the first ascent of Yashkuk Sar, a lonely 6,667m peak in Pakistan, near the Afghan border.
Dane Steadman, Cody Winckler, and August Franzen are supported by one of the coveted Cutting Edge grants from the American Alpine Club. The grants support alpine-style, exploratory climbing expeditions.
While we are still waiting for details, the team aimed for the peak’s north face, which faces the remote Chapursan Valley in northern Pakistan. According to Ali Saltoro, the owner of team outfitter Alpine Adventure Guides Pakistan, the Americans reached the summit yesterday [Sunday] afternoon. However, they’re not done. They will need two days for the descent to base camp.
Yaskuk has two separate peaks, 6,667m Yashkuk Sar I and 6,244m Yashkuk Sar II.
Dane Steadman. Photo: Fletch Peterson
The north face of Yashkuk Sar is approached from Yashkuk Yaz Glacier, a remote area with great climbing potential for highly skilled teams.
6,000m action in Pakistan
While the 8,000’ers in Pakistan are typically climbed in June and July, conditions remain good for lower Karakoram peaks, the Hindu Kush, and the Pakistan Himalaya.
Adam Bielecki and Louis Rousseau are on their way to another unclimbed (and unnamed) 6,000’er in the Karakoram. Before leaving, they said they expect great conditions.
Meanwhile, Danni Bielecki of Poland has been attempting the first repetition of Sangemarmar Peak in the Batura range, but he finally retreated (see his latest Instagram post below).
Local Pakistani operators have also reported ascents on the beautiful Lady’s Finger and Laila Peak.
