Tyler Andrews left Everest Base Camp at about 9:30 pm Nepal time (late morning Eastern Time) to attempt a one-way, no-oxygen speed record up the world’s highest mountain. He has already reached the Khumbu Icefall.
He began at night for strategic reasons:
- He will cross the Khumbu Icefall at its coldest, when it is more stable and less busy. Most climbers start crossing at least four hours later. During the Icefall stage, he will be supported by regular climbing/running partner Chris Fisher.
- He will avoid the heat in the long Valley of Silence (near Camp 2).
- Dawn will break before the cold upper sections. He will be tired by then and will appreciate the warmth and light.
At several points, he will be able to pass climbers, but it remains to be seen how he will get around the unavoidable crowds on the ropes, especially between Camp 4 and the summit.
He will have robust support during the climb, including stocked supplies of fluids and emergency oxygen if needed. A Sherpa crew is available at some points.
Andrews will carry an open InReach so everyone can track his location as he goes. He must complete the climb in less than 20 hours to beat the previous Base Camp to summit record. If all goes really well, Andrews told ExplorersWeb that he is confident he could finish in 14 to 15 hours.
Everest North Side
Meanwhile, on the Tibetan side of Everest, the Chinese rope-fixing team has reached 8,300m. They may top out as soon as tomorrow, Dawa Sherpa of Climbalaya told ExplorersWeb. Dawa Sherpa also noted that their team will not follow immediately, as they have just finished their rotation to 7,400-7,500m. Other international teams are climbing at a similar pace.
